Milwaukee, Wisconsin, USA ~ The Pfister Hotel


We have wanted to see Milwaukee for quite some time (we booked a trip several years ago and had to cancel) and we wanted to take the Amtrak, which departs from Union Station right across the street from our house. Thanksgiving seemed like a good time to travel by train.


If we don’t have a specific property in mind, we typically check a handful of sources to develop a short-list and then narrow down from there. Milwaukee isn’t a big enough destination to be covered on its own in most of our go-to sources, but just Googling “best hotels in Milwaukee” turned up a number of guides that we could then use to triangulate recommendations. We also typically check booking.com to see a property’s overall score and any trends with reviews; we did that for Milwauikee (even though we recommend — once a decision is made — to book directly with the hotel).

For this search, we pretty quickly arrived at a list of three hotels that met our criteria of (1) being centrally located, (2) having an on-site restaurant/bar (in case we couldn’t find a good option on Thanksgiving) and, (3) quite simply, looking interesting.


The Pfister is Milwaukee’s historic “grand” hotel — it opened in 1893 — and, based on our research, it looked like a hub of activity for tourists and residents alike. We live a few blocks away from St. Paul’s classic, historic hotel — The St. Paul Hotel — and it always does a great job of celebrating the holidays. We imagined the same would be true for The Pfister. We weren’t wrong.

We arrived at The Pfister on a snowy Thanksgiving evening to find the lobby packed: folks heading to dinner at the hotel’s steak house, others enjoying a drink in the lobby bar, and some seemingly there just for the scene. As we checked in, staffers were putting the finishing touches on the lobby Christmas tree, which was a popular site for photos during our two-night stay. We also saw lots of preparation for traditional breakfasts with Santa that started the day after Thanksgiving.


Our “premier king” room — in the tower (aka the round 1960s wing) — was perfectly comfortable. We technically had a view of Lake Michigan, but it was tucked behind other downtown buildings. One cool thing about the Pfister is its commitment to the arts. Not only does it house the largest Victorian art collection of any hotel in the world, the hotel also hosts an artist-in-residence program, and our room featured a print from one of the artists. We imagine that each guest room features a piece from a past artist-in-residence.

What else to say about the room? Its classic interior design aligned with the rest of the hotel, and everything seemed well-maintained. (A lovely person we met at a gallery during our stay noted that the hotel was in the process of renovating rooms; we think ours had been through a recent renovation.)

If we were to visit again, we might book a room in the original 1893 buildling. The historic side of the hotel is beautiful, and while the rooms might be smaller, we imagine they likely better align with the overall aesthetic of the hotel. (Our room in the round tower felt a little at odds with the hotel’s design.)


I think, at this point, we can confidently say we’re in the clear, but the Bedbug Song can never hurt. You sing it at all hotels, even the fanciest, and the tradition has served us well.

“Bed bug, bed bug, leave me alone. Stay out of my bag; stay out of my home….”


How about two things?

First, the liveliness of the place. In addition to holiday events, the hotel hosted an Irish step dancing competition during our stay. Let’s just say, those dancers brought a lot of life — and a lot of luggage — to the hotel.

Second, the art collection was fun to see. We took time to wander the hallways and common areas, and it was like a visit to a museum. Milwaukee has a great art scene, which we didn’t expect, and The Pfister helps contribute to that.


We had only one full day in the city, but we made the most of it and ran out of time before we ran out of things to do. We would definitely return — maybe in the summer when we could more fully explore the area around Lake Michigan, the Riverwalk, and the Third Ward.


The ride down was great. It was Thanksgiving day, so we had a car practically to ourselves. The route is beautiful, and sipped a Bloody Mary while watching the scenery sweep past. On the way back, the train was fully booked, and we had to scramble to find seats, which weren’t together. The Borealis — the train between St. Paul and Chicago — doesn’t do reserved seats like the Empire Builder –the longer route — does. My guess is that lots of Borealis riders would be happy to pay a little more to get a reserved seat. We definitely would.

Even though the return trip started a little rocky, we arrived back in St. Paul to a snowy holiday evening with the European Christmas Market at the depot in full swing. It was pretty magical and awesome to get off the train and walk right across the street to our home.


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Missoula, Montana, USA ~ The Wren

We introduced hotelling.org in 2018 and have written nearly 50 posts. Starting with this one, we decided to mix it up a little, structuring the post as a Q&A with one of us posing the questions and the other answering them. Enjoy!


You lived in Missoula 30 years ago, but I’ve never been to Missoula or to Montana. We’ve always talked about visiting, and this seemed like the right time to do it. Fall in Montana can be beautiful. When we made our plans, we didn’t know that our stay would coincide with homecoming weekend at the University of Montana where you were a graduate student (we only realized it was homecoming when we woke on our first morning to a very vibrant downtown Missoula as people headed to the parade) . That event made the timing even better.


The hotel choices in Missoula have grown quite a lot since you lived there, but most of them are national chains, and the properties are pretty cookie-cutter. The Wren, which opened in 2022 on the site of what was a 1960s motor inn, stood out as a property with a personality – something distinctly “Missoula.”


Pared down with an artsy, outdoorsy vibe.


We stayed in three rooms during two separate visits to The Wren (three rooms rather than two because we moved once during our first stay). All three rooms were, first and foremost, functional – not fancy by any means but with some nice touches. We appreciated the wall infographics above each bed — custom pieces by local artists that reflect iconic symbols of Missoula and Montana. Our rooms featured the lifespan of the Western red cedar tree, traditional forestry tools, and classic trout flies.

The rooms also included ample pegs for hanging coats, hats, and other outdoor gear; Pendleton wool blankets; sliding barn doors between the bedroom and bathroom; spacious showers; and – a welcome surprise – fluffy cotton robes. We also liked the clever “do not disturb” magnets for the metal doors, which harkened back to the motor inn that originally stood at the site, and, on our first stay, we enjoyed the views of Mount Sentinel and the “M” that peeked out above our east-facing courtyard window.


The Wren sees itself as a launchpad to Missoula and its surroundings, so it doesn’t work hard to keep you on site. With that said, the welcoming common areas deserve a linger. The lobby “map room” has lots of information on local sites, along with rotating art from the Missoula Art Museum and a mini-exhibit on the famed Missoula smokejumpers. As cycling fans, we loved getting an up-close look at the bike Tyler Hamilton rode in the 2003 Tour de France. And the front desk staffers are ready to share advice. We had an extended conversation about the likelihood of encountering a bear on different hikes around the area (the bears hadn’t yet settled in for their long winter’s nap), and the staffer offered us a can of bear spray should we want it. Finally, the Northwest takes its coffee seriously, and the Basecamp coffee shop right off the lobby is popular with hotel guests and Missoulians alike. If the coffee shop is full – and on a nice day – the courtyard tables and chairs offer a peaceful spot to sip an excellent coffee and catch up on the news by picking up one of the actual newspapers (old-school paper version) scattered around.


Should we return to Missoula, we would definitely stay at The Wren again. Missoula is a place all its own – its official nickname is the “Garden City,” but locals prefer “Zootown” – and The Wren captures Missoula well. The Wren is a great example of a hotel that does exactly what it sets out to do, and it provides a distinctive experience for its guests.


  • The Wren, Missoula
  • 4-night stay: October 10-12 and October 17, 2025
  • Wren King (1st stay) and King (2nd stay)

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Nisswa, Minnesota, USA ~ Nature Link Resort

In the days following the new year, most people in our part of the world are on a bit of a holiday hangover and slowly returning to “normal” life. But we have a January 5 birthday in our house, and it’s actually a perfect time to get out of our neighborhood, which suddenly seems very lonely after all of the holiday happenings.

In the cold and dark days of a Minnesota winter, it might make the most sense to head south, but this year, we did the opposite, booking a few nights at Nature Link, a resort in central Minnesota that had been on our list for a few years.


Nature Link is in the Brainerd Lakes area, and although the area is a popular destination and a place where many friends have cabins, we had never spent time there, opting instead typically to head to the North Shore of Lake Superior when we want to get into nature. We can’t even remember exactly how we found Nature Link – it was likely just a Google search of resorts near Nisswa, MN – but what we saw online was intriguing: modern, tastefully finished cabins on a smaller, off-the-beaten-path lake with an aesthetic that emphasizes slowing down and spending time with nature near the water and among the woods.

Summers are clearly the more popular time for resorts like this, but winters draw anglers for ice fishing, cross-country skiers and snowshoers, snowmobilers, and people like us who just want a little escape from the city. On the weekend we visited, there was no snow (a hardship for the local economy), but it was very cold, below zero. We love to get outside in the winter, and we did manage a walk into the town of Nisswa along the Paul Bunyan trail, which adjoins the resort. But the cold temps and lack of snow turned out to be a good excuse to either stay inside by the fire, looking out from our big windows to the forest, or to take the short trek to the newly finished sauna where we watched the sun move across the frozen lake.

Apparently, we weren’t the only ones who wanted this kind of weekend. When we first arrived at Nature Link on a Friday afternoon, we thought we might be two of only a few guests, but by the time we headed to dinner on Friday evening, lights were on in nearly all of the resort’s 20 or so cabins and suites.


When we made our booking, we had a choice between a cabin looking out on Clark Lake or an elevated cabin facing into the forest. The treehouse experience sounded intriguing, so we chose that one, not knowing exactly what to expect. Upon arrival, we were directed to Cedar Cabin #11 – a stand-alone structure and one of two with this particular design – jutting up from ground level with access via an external staircase. Inside, a massive picture window looked out to the woods; it really did feel like a luxurious treehouse.

Inside, we found a gas fireplace, two leather chairs oriented toward the windows, a king-sized bed, and a nicely finished bathroom with a shower and deep soaking tub. The cabin also included a big Nespresso machine and a small refrigerator and microwave, along with some fun features: a deck of cards, tasty chocolates, a few books. There are no TVs in the cabins, which we welcomed, but the solid WiFi made sure we could stay connected with the outside world if needed.

The design and the quality of the furnishings and finishes exceeded our expectations. This is not your typical rustic cabin. We’ll note that Nature Link is only a few years old, and maintaining the standards will surely take constant work. In addition to guests, who can be hard on a property, the outside elements are relentless. On the days we stayed, the difference in the outside and inside temperatures was causing a fair amount of condensation on the window frames, and even though it was winter, we still tracked sand inside whenever we entered (the resort helpfully leaves a broom in the cabin). We hope the simple design and relatively rugged materials of the cabins lead to easier upkeep. In addition, because the resort is new, it’s still under development, and, although it was hard to tell in the winter, the landscape looks to be in recovery from some of that development.

One more note about the Cedar cabins: They are set up like a hotel room, and Nature Link doesn’t have a restaurant, so guests need to venture off property to eat. There are lots of options close by – more than we could explore on our long weekend – so this wasn’t an issue. But visitors to Nature Link who want to cook should book one of the bigger cabins with a full kitchen.


Without snow, many winter activities were out of the question, but that turned out to be just fine; it meant we could truly take it slow. Between short bursts of energy to walk around the property, visit the sauna, or explore Nisswa, we mostly just settled down near the fire and gazed out to the forest (or played the classic board game Aggravation). On our second day, we were entranced by a pileated woodpecker knocking away at a nearby tree and later watched as a herd of deer moved slowly across our view, feeding on the nibbles below the brush.

We’re curious how the resort feels in the summer when the whole area is brimming with people; we’ve heard the whole Brainerd Lakes region can be a pretty lively scene. We’re guessing that folks looking for something on the quieter side choose Nature Link; in summer, the resort provides bikes, kayaks, and hammocks for guests. And the resort has a private island that guests are encouraged to explore. All of this sounds terrific and right up our alley. We hope to return during summer to see more of what Nature Link has to offer, but it might just be that the quiet of winter is when the resort really shines.


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Hastings, Minnesota, USA ~ The Confluence Hotel

Living with a view out over the Mississippi River, we’ve always thought that river towns have a unique feel, a spirit that evokes travel and the pull of places beyond the horizon. When we heard of a new hotel just downriver from us in Hastings, Minnesota, we knew we’d have to visit, and Hastings is less than half-an-hour away, so the location was perfect for a quick overnight getaway in midwinter.

Hastings is situated where the St. Croix River, fresh from the eponymous National Scenic Riverway, joins the Mississippi on the long journey to the Gulf of Mexico. Following on the heels of its upriver cousin, Stillwater, Hastings is seeing investment in its historic downtown with restaurants, shops, and, now, the historic reuse of an old manufacturing complex, which has been remade into The Confluence, a boutique hotel just west of where the new Hastings Bridge brings you into downtown.

The Confluence opened, after many pandemic-related setbacks, in the fall of 2023. The aesthetic is an architecturally fun, industrial-chic treatment that does a great job of retaining and showing off the bones of the original structure, which housed the H.D. Hudson Manufacturing Company.

The hotel has outdoor spaces looking out over the river that will surely be wonderful in warmer weather, a ballroom, and several wings with hallways that showcase the original wood and steel-beamed roof high up above the rooms that have been tucked into the shell of the original factory floorplan. But the highlight of the public spaces is the lobby/bar/restaurant area, which already appeared to function as a kind of living room for Hastings. Even in late January, the space had a pleasant and inviting buzz about it.

Our room, a king suite, was large and well-appointed, with little to no wear-and-tear, as expected in an almost-new hotel. Although the room worked well functionally, the layout felt a little odd. Likely as an attempt to create a separate seating area (necessary for the “suite” designation?), the TV and cabinet it sat on were situated in the middle of the room, so either the view from the seating area or from the bed — depending on the TV’s orientation — was a view of the back of the TV. We might be extra sensitive to the intrusion of televisions on the design of a space, but this just felt awkward. Additionally, the room had only one window tucked in a corner and blocked from view when we were on the side of the room with the bed. For a building with fabulous windows, we were disappointed to have only one. With that said, upon check-out, we did learn that our particular suite (#229) is somewhat unique in its floorplan, and all of the other junior suites have a full wall of windows. For our next stay, we’ll be sure to request a different room.

On the positive side, the room had a spacious, high-ceilinged, loft-like feel with original exposed steel beams and pillars. It was fun to see some of the structure of the building carrying through to the rooms. Ours had lots of places to sit — we weren’t there long enough to test them all out — and a wet bar (although the refrigerator and coffee maker were across the room, beneath the TV). We’re guessing some of the hotel’s rooms were designed for special-occasion stays where groups may want to gather. The sliding barn door to the bath was a nice touch, and the bath was large with double sinks and a sparkling, white-tiled shower. The room also had plenty of hooks, which are one of our favorite features and always handy for travelers.

We really liked the energy of the lobby space, so we decided to have dinner at the hotel restaurant, Missi’s Sip & Savor. The name may be a stretch as a play on words, but the bar service, drinks, and food well-exceeded our expectations. We sat at the bar, and the bartending team was skilled, friendly, and energetic, and everyone seemed genuinely eager to work with us to create some custom cocktails, which were outstanding and a great paring with our warm smoked walleye dip, chopped salad and ale-braised short ribs. Our experience at the bar made us think the hotel is the place to go for elevated dining in Hastings.

The Mississippi River was the primary transportation route into the Upper Midwest before the railroads made their way to Wisconsin and Minnesota, so many of the oldest towns are strung out along the riverways. Hastings has been able to preserve much of its historic main street (actually 2nd Street East) with some wonderful late nineteenth-century buildings. The street is lined with antique shops, and in between those, we found a few gift shops with local goods and a game store with every kind of game you could imagine. Visitors will also find a good selection of places to eat and drink, some with outdoor space looking over the river. And the residential streets clustered around downtown have quite a few houses of historic interest. We’ll surely return in summer to check out what we imagine to be a lively scene.

  • The Confluence Hotel, downtown Hastings, Minnesota
  • 1-night stay: January 20-21, 2024
  • King suite, #229

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