Author: wnwyatt

Santa Barbara, CA, USA ~ Palihouse Santa Barbara

March 2022

It was March 2022. The pandemic lingered on, although conditions had certainly improved since early in the year. Still, international travel was spotty and, for many destinations, hassle-filled. Therefore, for a week away in spring, we decided, once again, to stay in the U.S. We had several domestic destinations on our list to visit, but many of those were still emerging out of winter, and we needed some sunshine and warmth, so we settled on California. Palm Springs and Santa Barbara were our two choices, but the ocean was calling.

The American Riviera

The “American Riviera” town of Santa Barbara it would be.

With a destination chosen, we set about researching a place to stay and decided that Santa Barbara’s geography would dictate the decision: Did we want to be beachside? In the heart of town? Or up in the foothills of the Santa Ynez mountains that surround Santa Barbara? Although the ocean drew us to Santa Barbara, most of the best oceanfront hotels in Santa Barbara are resorts that seemed a little isolated for our taste. The same was true for our top choice up in the hills; we would have a car, but our goal when traveling is typically to stay out of the car and explore on foot or on two wheels. With those factors in mind, we went with our city pick: Palihouse, a 24-room hotel situated in Santa Barbara’s historic Presidio neighborhood.  

Quintessentially Santa Barbara

Santa Barbara is recognized for its Spanish colonial revival architecture; its sophisticated but laid-back attitude; its proximity to the ocean, to the wine country of the central coast, and to Los Angeles; and, of course, it’s weather: warm, sunny days and cool mornings and evenings. To us, Palihouse embodied many of these features and, as a consequence, felt very place-based.

The hotel itself is comprised of several individual structures that surround two lovely courtyards. Against an almost-always blue sky, the white stucco walls, red-tiled roofs and iron railings of Palihouse provided a postcard-like view from almost any spot in the hotel. Our room – like all in the hotel – had both a fireplace and a balcony, and we’ll admit, on a few occasions, to having the double-doors to the balcony wide open while simultaneously enjoying the warmth and glow of the fireplace.

The courtyard off the reception and bar area, which we overlooked from our room, had a central fountain with umbrella-covered tables along with couches and chairs suited for lounging. Throughout the day, guests could be found having a coffee or a cocktail, chatting with friends or reading. The second courtyard was home to a lovely small pool, which was reportedly kept at 86 degrees – warm enough for just about any day. The attentive staff was always busy assisting guests, but no one ever seemed hassled or in a hurry, and our requests always received quick responses.

During our stay, one of our favorite rituals was walking into and out of the hotel property through the back entrance where we would almost always see a few small lizards sunning themselves on the sidewalk (one of which we could recognize because of its half-tail) before walking in between two historic buildings to emerge into the grounds of the Presidio. This route made the hotel feel like part of the historic monument itself.

Room No. 3

The hotel began as the Santa Barbara School of the Arts in the 1920s and, immediately before becoming the Palihouse, was the Spanish Garden Inn. In fact, we found the hotel through a London Telegraph article that pointed us to the Spanish Garden. In March 2021, the Palisociety group opened the hotel after completing all new interiors throughout the property, which Palihouse describes as an aesthetic that blends “vintage preppy” with “American Riviera.” That design – however one would describe it – was clearly articulated and cohesive throughout the hotel, and elements from individual rooms carried through to the common areas, which happened to be some of our favorite spaces.

Our room was spacious and, with the exception of the bathroom and entry, bright. One of our favorite features was the two soft chairs that sat just inside the balcony. With the doors wide open, we could enjoy the view from the balcony while still having the privacy of sitting in our room. In addition to the already-noted fireplace, the room also featured a big, comfortable bed with Frette linens and a Nespresso machine (although we wouldn’t have put the coffee in the bathroom).

Perhaps because the hotel was not purpose-built, a few elements in our room did feel a little awkward, and one or two choices didn’t fit with the rest of the generally well-executed rooms. First, the room wasn’t effectively set up for stays of more than a few days. The closet was spacious – and the staff cheerfully delivered a bag full of additional hangers – but the quite-small chest of drawers inside the closet wasn’t enough to allow us to properly unpack. (For the record, we were there for a week but only brought a carry-on suitcase each, so we didn’t need vast amounts of storage.) Additionally the bathroom, which we’ll admit was our least favorite part of the room, didn’t have any towel racks and only a few hooks. From a sustainability perspective, we aren’t guests who need or want fresh towels every day, but we didn’t have anywhere to hang wet towels or washcloths, so we took to draping them over the tub. The bathroom itself was dark, and the shower and toilet, which were in a separate “closet” from the tub and sink, felt cavelike; a glass window between the shower and the tub only partially mitigated the challenge. Perhaps if the fixtures of the bathroom had been of higher quality, the feeling would have been different, but the soaking tub was plastic, and the faucet was loose. The vanity for the sink didn’t have any storage for toiletries, and it was clear that an older piece had been spruced up by covering it with a pleated fabric drape rather than bringing in a new vanity, sink and counter-top.

Other smaller quibbles related to visible extension cords, burned out light bulbs, and oddly placed art, which may have been from Santa Barbara’s vibrant arts community, but seemed oddly commercial and not in keeping with the rest of the hotel’s interior design. Finally, in our room, the placement of the full-sized Smeg refrigerator right at the front door made for an oddly tight entrance. (We did happen to walk by a few other rooms when the front door was open, and the refrigerator placement seemed unique to our room.)

Cocktails anyone?

The Palisociety brand is unstuffy and fun, and from what we can see the hotel facilitates fun by encouraging cocktail/wine/beer consumption. Upon arriving in our room, we were invited to enjoy a half-bottle of prosecco “while getting settled in.” The room’s refrigerator was stocked with all of the cold necessities for crafting any cocktail, and what wasn’t in the refrigerator was in a bedside tray. Of course, while on holiday, who really wants to make their own drink? This is especially true when the hotel offers a complimentary cocktail hour many nights (we never quite figured out the logic of what nights featured a cocktail hour and what nights didn’t) where anything on the menu – or off the menu – was on offer. And during hours when the bar was closed, we also had access to an honor bar off the main courtyard. Let’s just say, we definitely didn’t go thirsty during our stay.

El Compendio

All in all, Palihouse Santa Barbara was a good choice for our week-long stay in Santa Barbara. We loved the quiet neighborhood that was close to so much we wanted to see. The staff were genuinely kind and helpful. The size of the hotel lent itself to an intimate and cozy vibe without feeling too inn-like where everyone knew everyone else’s comings and goings. And we loved the inside/outside spaces.

Palihouse embodied many of Santa Barbara’s distinctive features and, as a consequence, felt very place-based.

Would we add Palihouse to the list of our top hotel stays? Probably not this time around. We tend not to put “value” high on our list when assessing a hotel, but we will say that Palihouse was as expensive or more so than some of our favorites, and we don’t think it quite stacks up, even when considering that Santa Barbara is a costly destination and we were traveling during a peak week. This feeling was reinforced when, after returning home, we got a second credit card charge from the hotel. After calling to inquire, we learned that although we had paid for our room upon check-in, this additional charge, which was not negligible, was for the daily resort fee. We would certainly call Palihouse a lovely small hotel but not a resort.

Stay details:

  • Palihouse Santa Barbara in the downtown Presidio historic district
  • Our stay: 7 nights, March 19 – 26, 2022
  • Room: deluxe king, #3

Where we ate, what we did:

Eating and drinking:

Breakfast at:

Breakfast at Rudy’s

Coffee at:

Beer and snacks at:

Dinner at:

Treats at:

Outings and adventures:

Near Butterfly Beach

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Key West, FL, USA ~ H20 Suites

August 2021

Key West is an interesting place. On the surface, it has the markings of a party town: abundant access to frozen drinks, purveyors of “excursions” on every corner, and people cruising the main drag in golf carts designed to fit half a dozen passengers or more. When we arrived in Key West in August 2021 – still in COVID times – this was our first impression.

There’s more to Key West than meets the eye.

But during our week-long stay, we came to see that there’s more to Key West than meets the eye. And H2O Suites served as a terrific base camp to explore the island and, when needed, escape from it.

As first-timers to Key West, we chose our hotel based on experience of properties we tend to favor: small but not too small, independent (generally) ownership, quality (over quantity) amenities, and exceptional service. In a town – or is it on an island? – with loads of choices, H2O Suites seemed to check all the right boxes.

Key West International to H20 Suites

The drive from the Key West airport to the hotel is only about 10 minutes and takes a route mostly along the ocean with a few quick jogs during the latter part of the trip. In terms of landmarks, H2O Suites is just a few blocks from the island’s Southernmost Point. While most destinations we’ve traveled to by air involve flying into airports on the outskirts – or beyond – of central districts, this cab ride was amazingly quick, and it gave Key West immediate bonus points as a destination. We’ll note that many visitors access the island by car from Miami; according to all of the Key West residents with whom we spoke, the drive through the Keys Causeway is beautiful, but it can also be excruciatingly slow. We were happy to fly right in.

A hotel highlight: the central garden

Upon checking in with two friendly staff members in a modest lobby, we were escorted to our room through a beautiful central garden that gave us Northerners pause the first time we saw it and, quite honestly, every time we walked through during our stay.

The central garden at H20 Suites

In addition to the lush tropical foliage, the garden has a water feature that runs nearly its length with sculptures and a fireplace that came on each night; while certainly not needed in August temperatures, the fireplace was beautiful nonetheless. Early in our stay, we met a tiny lizard in the garden that came out on the sidewalk to catch some sun and some bugs. We took to watching for it each time we walked by. On several days, we even got to see the lizard’s big green uncle as we were going to/from our room, which, like each room in the hotel, was accessed from the garden rather than through a typically interior hallway.

Suite 15

When we made our booking, we debated whether we wanted a room with a private plunge pool on the first floor or one with a balcony overlooking the garden on the second (top) floor. The hotel has a really lovely rooftop pool, so we opted for the balcony rather than plunge pool, thinking we could request a change once we arrived if the plunge pool was too good to pass up.

Upon seeing our room – and the rooms with pools below us – we were happy with our choice. We really liked our perch on the top floor, which – from the balcony – felt a lot like a tree house. A few days into our stay, we did learn that the “plunge pool” rooms across the garden from us are more private; on a return visit, we might give one of those a try.

The balcony overlooking the garden (our room had a second, smaller balcony on the opposite end) was surely one of our favorite features, and we spent several mornings with coffee and several evenings with cocktails there. In between the two balconies was a spacious, comfortable and well-appointed room for our week-long stay.

A few features worth noting:

  • a marble-heavy bathroom with a big shower, plenty of space for two people, and lots of natural light;
  • a mini-bar with a sink and built-in fridge and freezer drawers. Turn-down service each night included Dove ice cream bars, along with baked goods for the next morning, and the staff made sure we always had plenty of water – very important for hydration in Florida in August;
  • a seating area with a couch and coffee table – and a second TV, which we turned on once just to say we used it;
  • more than adequate storage. The room had a large, well-structured closet and plenty of additional furnishings with drawers. Our only request would be for a few more hooks to hang wet bathing suits, towels, and exercise gear washed freshly washed from hot and humid excursions;
  • Egyptian cotton robes; two big umbrellas capable of standing up to tropical storms; and lots of towels, which came in handy for the multiple daily showers required by tropical heat.

Beyond our room

H2O Suites isn’t heavy on amenities; beyond guest rooms, it’s only the pool with poolside bar and fitness room. We didn’t set foot in the fitness room, but we spent plenty of time at the pool and were treated fabulously by the two staff members who were on duty during our stay. Throughout the day, a selection of gratis drinks and snacks are offered at the pool, and if those don’t suit, the bar is fully stocked. The pool isn’t large – it’s really more suited for soaking than swimming – but it’s perfect for cooling down and just the right depth for propping up on the edge to read a book – Hemingway perhaps?

The hotel also offers a concierge service; we didn’t end up using it much, but we did appreciate being able to rent bicycles for the week, which were, by the way, the perfect way to explore the island. On the list of excursions offered by the hotel is a day trip to Cuba. COVID – and politics – put that one on hold, but if we return, that would be top on our list.

Feedback for…a handful of guests

Our only quibble had nothing to do with the hotel itself or the staff, who were generally wonderful. One reason we were attracted to H2O Suites was the 25+ age policy; we felt this policy, along with the room rates, would eliminate visitors who had come to Key West for only a party. Unfortunately, there were a few (just a few) hotel guests who seemed to treat the hotel and the staff with little regard. For example, we cringed when – from the middle of the pool – a guest took to barking out orders for drinks to the person working at the poolside bar.

While H2O Suites may not make our top three all-time favorites, this Key West boutique hotel was certainly well-executed, rarely missing a beat. With a great location, a friendly and professional staff, and standards that met all our expectations, it’s a place we would certainly return to when we find ourselves in the southernmost tip of Florida again.

Stay details:

  • H20 Suites near the Southernmost Point in Key West
  • Our stay: 7 nights — August 7 – 14, 2021
  • Room: Luxury second-floor balcony suite

Where we ate, what we did:

Sunset in Key West from Hot Tin Roof

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Pandemic Hotelling

June – November 2020

Hewing Hotel, Minneapolis, Minnesota ~ Hilton Tru, North Platte, Nebraska ~ The Kindler, Lincoln, Nebraska ~ Hotel Crosby, Stillwater, Minnesota

COVID-19 and hotel stays. As most travelers have found, the two don’t go well together. When the pandemic arrived in the U.S. in March, we were scheduled for a 12-day holiday in London at The Standard and in Amsterdam at The Dylan with a Eurostar journey between the two cities. Those plans got put on hold when, first, we thought we might not be able to get back from Europe and, then, when much of the world went under some sort of “stay at home order.” So we did just that until late June when it seemed okay enough for a quick night out of the house at the Hewing in Minneapolis. That was followed in mid-July by a road trip to Denver to visit family with stays in North Platte, Nebraska, at a Hilton Tru (outbound) and in Lincoln, Nebraska, at The Kindler (return). Thanksgiving brought a few days away from work and a stay at the Hotel Crosby.

Minneapolis, MN, USA ~ Hewing Hotel ~ June 2020

We had stayed at the Hewing once before and wanted a chance to get to know it better. It’s a Minneapolis favorite, and we were a bit underwhelmed on our first stay. We should have known that pandemic conditions would not lend themselves to a destination that is all about buzz — from its rooftop bar and pool to the lobby that has been called the North Loop’s (the neighborhood’s) living room. We arrived to a completely empty lobby — in fact, much of the public space on the first floor was cordoned off — and we made our way up to our room without encountering a single person. Once inside our room, we logged on to the special COVID guest information and learned that, to ensure health and safety for guests and for staff, the hotel was only booking rooms on every fourth night. We also noticed that amenities like the mini bar and decorative items like throw pillows had been removed. It all made sense, and, in fact, we had brought our own container of sanitizing cloths to give everything a quick wipe down, but it all made the room feel a little sad and empty, much like the rest of the hotel.

Our first stay at the the Hewing was in a standard king room; this time we chose a suite with the hopes of having some extra features and a good view. Our corner room was spacious and well-designed, but hopes for a good view were dashed when we walked in and saw that each of the room’s three windows began seven feet from the floor and went up from there. Even standing on the bed, we couldn’t see out. The lack of (any kind of) a view made us feel even more sealed off from the world. We contemplated asking if another room were available, but knowing all of the extra cleaning done and safety precautions taken — and because we were only staying one night — we didn’t want to cause a fuss.

So what do you do in a hotel that trades on hustle and bustle when everything that fosters that is shelved? We were able to have a masked and socially distanced drink on the rooftop. The pool was open to guests who reserved (we didn’t have swim gear), and a small group looked like they were having fun on the hot June afternoon. We took a few good walks down the nearly empty streets. And we got takeout burgers to eat back in the room while watching old movies. All in all, our Hewing stay wasn’t quite the break from pandemic world that we hoped for, but it was a welcome change of scenery and a surely safe outing.

We do have to compliment the hotel for COVID-related safety precautions taken. At a time when spending a night at any hotel might have seemed risky, we never felt like the hotel had anything less than our complete safety in mind.

Stay Details:

  • Hewing Hotel, North Loop Minneapolis
  • 1-night stay, June 27, 2020
  • Hennepin Suite

North Platte, NE, USA ~ Hilton Tru ~ July 2020

We’ve made the drive between Minneapolis and Denver dozens of times, and one thing we’ve learned is that — even in normal days — the road is heavily traveled, and lodgings can be in high demand. And most of them are your garden-variety roadside inns. When we planned to make the trek to Denver once again, we knew we should book ahead, and pandemic days made us lean toward one of the bigger chains, which we thought might have a better handle on health and safety protocols (at that time, many of the more rural areas between Minneapolis and Denver were treating coronavirus pretty casually). We figured we would do our stopover in North Platte, and did a booking.com search for possibilities. Perhaps not surprisingly, the options had grown since we had last stopped in the central Nebraska town, and we had lots of choices. Having never tried the Hilton Tru brand — and seeing that the brand was new to North Platte — we made the booking.

We weren’t sure what to expect when we pulled into the parking lot on the edge of town adjoining the highway. The hotel was visibly new, a big structure sitting on a bare lot surrounded on all sides by parking lots or a road. As we pulled in, it was clear that the pandemic was driving people to car travel; the parking lot was nearly full — quite the opposite of what we had experienced a few weeks earlier at the Hewing, and we weren’t sure what to think. Inside in the lobby, we found a fair bit of activity, but everything was well managed.

The room had a functional European vibe (complete with a few features to love); it reminded us of some of the places we stayed in Norway. The room was small, but space was optimized, and everything had its place; the room felt modern and clean (not the worst thing during a pandemic.) Overall, the feeling was friendly and fun, and the experience was more than we expected at a surprisingly low price point.

Stay Details:

  • Tru by Hilton, North Platte, Nebraska
  • 1-night stay, July 18, 2020
  • King Room

Lincoln, NE, USA ~ The Kindler ~ July 2020

On our return trip from Denver, we stopped in Lincoln, Nebraska. When we drive between Minneapolis and Denver, we typically opt to stay in Omaha, which is 60 miles to the east and a bit bigger with more choices. But Lincoln is home to the University of Nebraska, and we both have a fondness for college towns. We booked The Kindler in advance, having found it in a search for hotels close to the university. It billed itself as a modern deco hotel, which was intriguing for a town that loves its cornhuskers (not a concept immediately associated with deco, although, we suppose, the deco movement did celebrate business and industry).

Right away, it was clear that the 49-room Kindler was trying to make its mark in downtown Lincoln, offering visitors something more than the typical college-town lodging. We could imagine what the lobby bar — Boitano’s — might be like on a typical, non-pandemic July evening. We had booked a “luxury king” room, and upon check-in were told that we’d get a lovely room with a balcony; the staff just needed to check to make sure the room was ready. Unfortunately, something went askew, and when we returned with our bags to pick up the key, we were told that room was no longer available. The room we did get was quite nice with the exception of the view. Rather than a sliding glass door with a balcony on the front of the hotel, our room had a window overlooking a parking garage.

With the exception of the giant flat screen TV and built-in mini fridge, the room did have a deco feel and was very well executed. What’s more, everything was in pristine condition. The hotel is new, so everything is fresh; the team at The Kindler will have to work hard to keep the standards up, particularly when the Nebraska football fans roll into town, but so far, they had done a good job.

Boitano’s Lounge

Did we mention that the bar is named after figure skater Brian Boitano? We made a point of stopping in — it was open, but empty so seemed not too coronavirus risky — and we wanted to give the bartender a little business. She, like all of the other staff we encountered, was super helpful if not too experienced. We asked her about the name of the bar. Did Brian Boitano have a connection to Lincoln? Perhaps to the university? Apparently no, but the hotel’s owner, who lives in Arizona, is friends with Brian. Or maybe it was Brian’s mom? Or something like that. The bar is quite simply an homage, and we think Boitano would approve.

Stay Details:

*We returned to The Kindler in summer of 2024 for two brief stays. See our thoughts when we checked in again on the Hotelling home page.

Stillwater, MN, USA ~ Hotel Crosby ~ November 2020

We spent two nights at the Crosby over the Thanksgiving holiday, so we decided it deserved its own post. Find it here.

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Stillwater, MN, USA ~ Hotel Crosby (pandemic edition)

November 2020

By the time Thanksgiving 2020 rolled around, we had been living in pandemic world for eight months. Most of us (those paying attention anyway) had cancelled — or never made — holiday plans. For us, Thanksgiving is never a great time to connect with family, as we both work right up until the day. We do, however, routinely, organize a quick two-person getaway for the long weekend, leaving on Thanksgiving morning. This year, we longed for a change of scenery but knew we had to stay within driving distance. And we had wanted to check out a new hotel — the Crosby — in Stillwater, a town on the banks of the St. Croix river just 30 minutes’ drive from St. Paul. In fact, we had booked a room at the Crosby in Summer 2020, but a reservation system error on the part of the hotel upended those plans. As an apology, the hotel sent us a free night’s stay. We thought we would accept that gesture but also give the hotel some business by staying a second night. We’re so glad we did.

Quiet but never lonely

The 55-room Crosby felt just right for the times. Although the hotel was relatively empty when we were there — at least we saw very few people other than staff — it never felt lonely. Someone was always available in the cozy lobby to help if needed, and even though the hotel bar and restaurant were closed for seating, a fabulous bartender, who may have also been a member of management, set us up both nights with cocktails and quite exceptional food from the hotel’s restaurant, MatchStick, to eat in our room. During our stay, we developed what felt like a kind of solidarity with the staff; it seemed they were genuinely happy to have us there, and we were so grateful the hotel was open to host us. (In one of our conversations, we learned that the two-year-old hotel had its best summer ever in 2020 catering to people like us who needed a little break from the pandemic in an environment that wouldn’t sacrifice health and safety.)

In non-COVID days, we could imagine the Crosby being quite the happening spot. Between the bar and restaurant — with its focus on craft spirits: 700 of them — and the rooftop pool and fireplace, the public spaces were inviting even when empty.

Celebrating Stillwater’s heritage

Unlike many buildings in Stillwater, the Crosby is new and purpose-built; it opened in October 2018. But references to the town’s history as an important sawmill center play prominently in the hotel. Our room featured wood beams, a sliding barn door, and furniture made from reclaimed wood, including a big platform bed perfect for toe-stubbing. Our room was bright and cheery with a roomy balcony (unfortunately not of much use in November in Minnesota but appreciated nonetheless) and playful touches like a bathroom mural featuring a cigar-smoking matron. Because all of our meals were taken in our room, we also made good use of the seating area in front of the TV where we stumbled upon and somehow got enchanted by old episodes of “The Partridge Family.”

Perfect for adventures on foot

Unlike the downtowns of Minneapolis and St. Paul, Stillwater’s core is small enough and tourism-focused enough to still have some life during a pandemic. We happened to be out getting coffee when Santa rolled through on a Stillwater fire truck, and the lights on main street helped get us in the holiday spirit. We took two longs walks: one along the river where the lift bridge has become a foot bridge and one up through the neighborhoods above the bluffs to see all of the big Victorian homes. We had fun looking at real estate listings for an “inside” tour of some of the homes.

Together with The Lora, Stillwater is now establishing itself as a town with some terrific lodging options that go beyond the traditional bed-and-breakfast choices that dominated until recently. With a nice selection of restaurants (we hope they all outlast COVID-19), non-chain retail and beautiful surroundings, Stillwater is becoming a favorite destination for a quick break. We’ll certainly return to the Crosby.

Stay details:

  • Hotel Crosby on Main Street in Stillwater
  • Our stay: 2 nights — November 27 and 28, 2020
  • Room: Premium King

Where we ate, what we did:

Interested in more pandemic hotelling adventures? Visit this post.

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Mexico City, Mexico ~ Downtown Mexico

January 2020

Four-and-a-half hours traveling south through a single time zone will get you from Minneapolis to Mexico City. The access hasn’t always been so convenient, so until recently, we had delayed a visit, even though mega-cities have long ranked high on our list of places to see. When Delta introduced a direct flight from Minneapolis and friends invited us for a long weekend in the city, we jumped at the opportunity. When those friends unfortunately had to cancel, we decided to go on our own, have some mezcal and tacos for them, and bring home ideas for next time.

La Condesa. Roma. Polanco. Coyoacán.

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Downtown Mexico

These were the neighborhoods that kept coming up as we researched Mexico City and places to stay. They all sounded lovely, but we were intrigued by a handful of articles that featured a hotel in the historic center of the city just a few blocks from the Zócalo, its main square. This part of Mexico City is experiencing a kind of renaissance, and while the hotel itself – aptly named Downtown Mexico – is only six years old, it is housed in a 17th-century palace situated in a UNESCO World Heritage area.

Palatial in a modern, minimalist way

In a city with 23 million people and things to see from end to end, we knew we would only dip our toes in the water during this short stay. The list of sights we wanted to see included several near the historic center, so that neighborhood seemed like a strategically wise choice. Then, when we read about Downtown Mexico and its adaptation of the palace building into what The Telegraph described as a neo-industrial hotel with lofty pared-down rooms and cool communal spaces, we were sold.

We arrived at Downtown Mexico on a warm January afternoon after being picked up at the airport by the hotel’s driver. As the porter delivered bags to our room, we enjoyed a welcome shot of mezcal and then got a brief introduction to the hotel’s facilities, including the rooftop pool and bar and the breakfast terrace. From there, we were on to our room, the Revolution Suite.

IMG_0839
Panorama – The Revolution Suite

We had seen pictures of the suite on the hotel’s website but were surprised – in the best way – when we entered for the first time. The scale of the space was breathtaking with barrel-vaulted ceilings 20 feet tall. The stone and plaster walls, tile floors and shuttered doors were complemented – but not overwhelmed – by simple wood and leather furniture. The architecture of the space provided the design, which had brutalist elements, but at the same time was soft and warm.

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Downtown’s good company

The hotel is small – 17 rooms – but it shares the palace building with several other businesses, many of which we took advantage of during our stay.

IMG_0800
Azul Historico

Azul Historico occupies one of two courtyards and is perhaps the most popular restaurant in the area. It was perpetually busy during our stay, and after having dinner there, we knew why. The palace also has a second restaurant, Puntarena, that specializes in fish; a small collection of Mexican-owned shops that sell boutique clothing, foods and gifts; and a well-regarded coffee shop on the first floor. Just outside the door of the hotel is one of Mexico City’s primary shopping districts, so we didn’t need to go far to find anything we might need.

Good to know

We don’t often use concierge services when we travel because we aren’t big planners, but Downtown’s chief concierge and her terrific colleagues helped us with several arrangements, including transport to and from the airport; tickets to the Frida Kahlo Museum; and reservations at Emilia (aka Milia), a relatively new arrival to Mexico City’s excellent dining scene. Throughout our stay, the staff also gave us helpful tips on things to see and do.

Downtown Mexico may not be the most luxurious place in which we have stayed, but it is certainly one of the most unique and memorable. It ranks in our top 3.

A few cautions for travelers with particular expectations: The hotel is in a bustling area, and the rooftop bar turns into a party spot at night. With our balcony door open, we could hear the sounds of the city late into the night. When we closed the door, it was very quiet. However, we can imagine that the rooms directly under the bar aren’t quite so peaceful.

Additionally, the rooms can be dark, particularly on cloudy days. We appreciated that the architecture of the room wasn’t cluttered with things like light fixtures, but that did mean the vast space was lit only with lamps and a votive candle — yes, a real candle. When the sun was out, light found its way in, and our room had the advantage of two shuttered doors on the east and west sides. Other rooms face only into the courtyard, and on a rainy day when the courtyard covers were drawn shut (we got to see the remarkably quick button-up on a rainy day), the whole building became quite dim. We love spaces that fluidly move between inside and outside and express the mood of the day, but we know not everyone feels the same.

Feeling fortunate

Downtown ranks as one of the most distinctive places we have stayed, and we feel lucky to have found it. The suite made the visit even more out of the ordinary; we highly recommend booking this particular room. Pictures can’t accurately capture the hotel’s spaces – and we could go on for much longer describing the many details we appreciated – but suffice it to say, Downtown Mexico is well worth a visit to experience yourself.

Stay details:

  • Downtown Mexico, central historic district
  • 3-night stay, January 17-19
  • Revolution Suite #14

Where we ate, what we did:

Kahlo
Frida Kahlo Museum

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St. Paul, MN, USA ~ Celeste of St. Paul

January 2020

IMG_0703For the previous year, we had watched with anticipation as a former convent — and later a music conservatory — was transformed into downtown St. Paul’s first boutique hotel. Things seemed to be moving slowly, at least based on our observations from the sidewalks and peeks through the windows. But then one day, right before the holidays, the Celeste was open for business. We got there within the first few weeks to have a New Year’s Eve drink in the bar, and a few days later we made plans for a birthday celebration and overnight stay. In the darkness of a January late afternoon, we walked the 10 blocks from our house to the hotel, carrying nothing more than a few toothbrushes.

Good bones

Completed in 1909, the Beaux-Arts building is an architectural gem. During strolls around the neighborhood, we had often admired the building’s curved double staircase that leads to the front entrance, its sixth-floor that we knew was once an open loggia, and its copper cornice. Prior to the announcement that it would become a hotel, the building was still graceful and elegant, but its age was showing, and we were thrilled to learn it had been purchased and would undergo renovation.

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Exterior renovations ended up being fairly minimal. Inside, an attempt was made to save  — and highlight — some of the building’s best  features, including arched ceilings, terrazzo floors, and lovely woodwork. Our room had what looked to be its original door with a built-in window (nuns don’t need a lot of privacy; the window had new mirrored glass), double closets, oak floors, tall wood trim, and sash windows. Breakfast was held in what used to be the convent’s chapel, and  at least three separate stairways with worn stone floors were fun ways to navigate around the building.

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Attention and investment still needed

We appreciated the hotel’s many references to its past. But pulling this off takes a lot of attention to detail…and a lot of money. In our short stay, we saw several indications that one or both of these were missing. Throughout the property, we saw what appeared to be construction dust, the windows were spotty, and the mail slot at the front door was filled with trash. It was almost as if, in the rush to open, the all-important final punch list had been neglected. We’re hoping the hotel is still at work on some of these easily-fixable details.

IMG_0730A few other shortcoming would take more effort. The ceiling in the breakfast space was already peeling under its fresh coat of paint. This made us wonder if  substantive repairs were passed over in favor of cosmetic touches. And — perhaps the oddest choice — the TV in our room was mounted over one of the closet doors, making the door mostly inoperable. (The room actually had really good storage if the TV weren’t blocking half of the closet space.) We know guests expect clear views of the TV from their hotel bed, but the placement of our TV truly detracted from the room’s aesthetic.

Next time a suite?

We booked a king room with a state capitol view. From our house, we can just see the gold statue that adorns the front of the capitol, so we thought it would be fun to see the whole building, which glows at night, from our hotel room. The room did, indeed, boast a stunning view of the capitol, which we could see from the very comfy bed. The bathroom didn’t have body lotion or robes, which we tend to count on, but it was brand new and functional, and for one night, we didn’t need those amenities. During this stay, we didn’t visit the bar, but it seems already to be establishing itself as a cozy spot for a cocktail or glass of wine.

If we stay at the Celeste a second time — we will give it another chance once it has settled in a bit — we’ll likely book a suite. The prices are quite a bit more, but not relative to other urban hotels, and the suites not only look terrific, they have the kinds of amenities (soaking tubs and Nespresso machines) that we’ve come to expect in boutique hotels.

Stay details:

  • Celeste of St. Paul
  • Location: Exchange Street, downtown St. Paul
  • Our stay: One night, January 4, 2020
  • Our room: Executive King Capitol View

What we ate, what we did:

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La Crosse, Wisconsin, USA ~ Charmant

November 2019 (with a second visit in June 2022)

On the list of places within a few hours’ drive of the Twin Cities, La Crosse, Wisconsin, was one of the few where we hadn’t spent any time. With the Thanksgiving holiday upon us and a big snowstorm making air travel a headache, we decided a holiday getaway was in order. The Charmant had been on our list for awhile — it’s a favorite of some colleagues — but we had never made the trip. We weren’t quite sure what to expect on a holiday weekend when so many people seem to settle in at home, but we’re not that good at settling in, and we figured that even a quiet La Crosse would be more fun that a quiet weekend at home, so we jumped in the car and headed down the Mississippi River.

A genuinely lively scene

IMG_0567We arrived at the Charmant at about 3:30 pm on Thanksgiving day and were pleasantly surprised to walk into a bustling scene — at the registration desk, at the lobby bar, and in the hotel restaurant and coffee shop, both of which were hosting Thanksgiving diners. The Charmant seemed like the place in town to be.

The hotel occupies the site of the very first structure in La Crosse — a trading post — which was eventually replaced by a candy factory. This is the building that now houses the Charmant. The hotel is just adjacent to the Mississippi River, abuts Riverside Park (more about that below), and is within a few blocks of the heart of downtown La Crosse, but the Charmant is a bit of an island among surface parking lots. Like many cities that are now realizing how to properly utilize their waterfronts, La Crosse has a way to go to bring vibrancy to the banks of the river.

The right combination: tasteful and cozy

IMG_0552 copyWhen we made our booking shortly before Thanksgiving, we had only a few choices for rooms, possibly because the hotel was full or possibly because it just operates at limited capacity during the holiday. We put in a request for an upgrade and got a call the day before Thanksgiving that a river “vue” room had become available; the Charmant staffer promised us a nice view of Christmas lights in the park, which sounded fun.

Like the atmosphere in the hotel’s common areas, our room exceeded expectations. It offered glimpses into the building’s past with an exposed brick wall and timber floors and ceilings, but it was clear that a significant investment was made to convert the factory into a hotel. IMG_0559The room wasn’t overly large, but it worked well and included high-end touches, including quality furnishings and a bathroom with double sinks, an oversized marble-lined shower, and a window. With the exception of robes, which were delivered on request, the room had everything we could need.

One of the things we’ve come to appreciate at a hotel are its details. The Charmant did a nice job with these. From local spirits with a full selection of needed mixers to wooden nickels that could be traded for coffee in the downstairs coffee shop where a wood fire was always burning, the details made the room feel a little indulgent.

Just one disappointment to note: When we returned to our room on the second day of our stay, the housekeeper had been in to make up the room, but the bed was left unmade and our bath mat hadn’t been replaced. This wasn’t a big deal but something that took just a little polish off the visit.

Surprise!

We heard about the holiday lights when we upgraded our room, but we weren’t prepared for the Rotary Lights. This La Crosse tradition, in its 25th year, entices much of the city down to Riverside Park on the Friday evening after Thanksgiving to watch a parade, which is then followed by the opening of the much-loved light light show. The best part of it all: We could watch the whole thing — parade, fireworks (yes, fireworks), and the official lighting of the park — from our warm room with a glass of wine in hand. Happy holidays indeed!

Stay details:

  • Charmant Hotel
  • Location: State Street at Riverside Park, La Crosse, Wisconsin
  • Our stay: 2 nights, November 28 and 28
  • Our room: River Vue King

Where we ate, what we did:

June 2022: Second visit

Our second visit to the Charmant was just as good as the first. We were delighted to see that many of hotel’s small details had survived the pandemic, and unlike many other places, the Charmant seemed to be thriving.

We stayed only a single night but managed cocktails on the rooftop bar, a visit to Riverside Park (where a Juneteenth celebration was underway) and the neighboring International Friendship Gardens, a pop into the architecturally interesting St. Joseph the Workman Cathedral, a delicious dinner at Lovechild, and brunch in the hotel before heading home. For visitors from Minneapolis/St. Paul, the drive down the Mississippi River in June (on either the Minnesota or Wisconsin side) is stunning. On our way home, we took a detour to Whitewater State Park (near St. Charles MN) for a terrific 5-mile hike up and down the limestone bluffs.

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Chicago, Illinois, USA ~ Virgin Hotels Chicago

October 2019

Chicago is a great hotel town with new options opening all of the time. We get to the city on a fairly regular basis and have found a handful of hotels we love. Even so, it’s hard to resist trying new properties, so we rarely stay in the same place twice. For this quick weekend trip centered around the wedding of two friends, we originally planned to stay at The Langham, which is housed in one of our favorite Mies van der Rohe modernist buildings right on the Chicago River and appears to be one of the more refined choices in Chicago. But we decided to save The Langham for a longer visit, so went looking for another option. We recalled a recommendation from friends who, a few years back, had visited Virgin Hotels Chicago and liked it quite a lot, so we booked a room there.

The Virgin personality

IMG_0514This stay was our second experience with the Virgin brand, the first being a train ride from London to Edinburgh. On the train – and in the first-class lounge before departure – we were introduced to Virgin’s playful and somewhat cheeky personality. The experience was a good one, and we would surely travel by Virgin trains again. We weren’t sure how the brand would translate to a hotel – there was a risk it would be full of young people in the city for a weekend of revelry – but for a short two night-stay, the stakes were low, and we were willing to give it a go.

We arrived mid-day – the hotel is perfectly situated on the corner of Lake and Wabash  Streets and less than a block from the train, which we took from Midway Airport – and were able to check right in after deciding to upgrade to a corner suite on the 19th floor. The 250-room property is housed in the neo-classical Old Dearborn Bank building, one of Chicago’s many beautiful brick high-rises. The person at the front desk was friendly and warm and seemed genuinely excited about the room he was checking us into. As we waited to board the elevator, we had fun viewing the elaborate pumpkins from the prior day’s pumpkin-carving contest.

Ahhh the views…but for one thing

Our room on the building’s northwest corner featured six big windows with fabulous views out to the Chicago River from one side and back toward the Loop on the other. Coincidentally, we ended up looking right out to The Langham, so even though we weren’t staying there, we nevertheless got to enjoy the van der Rohe building.

Only one thing got in the way of the truly top-notch views. From four of our room’s six windows, a prominent feature was the giant “TRUMP” mounted on the side of the Trump Tower. Anyone who has been to Chicago in recent years will know exactly what we’re talking about. The size of the letters certainly matches the size of Trump’s ego, and it was hard, each time we looked out the windows, not be reminded of the state of the U.S. presidency. At night, the sign was even more obtrusive. While we’d prefer to take in the city lights, we did choose to pull the blinds when it came time for bed.

Close to pristine

The hotel opened in 2015 and is holding up quite nicely. Our suite, which included a lounge, a spacious Jack-and-Jill style bathroom and a bedroom, was in nearly impeccable shape. We had to look closely to find any sign of wear-and-tear. We appreciate this, partly because we know how hard it is to maintain a property when people are coming and going every day. The walls in our suite were unscuffed, the tile sparkled and the furniture surfaces showed no signs of scratches or stains. We did find some small tears on the bottom of a leather upholstered appendage on the end of the bed (a slightly awkward design element that we’re pretty sure has frequent run-ins with the vacuum), and the engineered wood floors squeaked a little, but on the whole, the suite felt like we were one of its first inhabitants – that grand illusion hoteliers seek to create and guests hope to experience.

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Features of note

The furnishings and amenities in our room weren’t lavish, but they were tasteful. The only thing that didn’t quite work was the Vespa chair – in Virgin’s trademark red – that sat at a table with two other more appropriately sized chairs. The chair certainly aligned with the Virgin sensibility, but it didn’t quite fit in our room. It seemed almost as if the Virgin designers identified the chair as an important feature for each room, but the floor plan of ours didn’t offer it a good place to sit.

We did appreciate some of the suite’s other features, including, of course, all of the windows. The suite also had a big ottoman perfect for feet propping, a huge shower with both hand-held and rainshower fixtures, generously-sized bath products from Red Flower, pour-over coffee, a full mini-bar with two small bottles of bubbly (perfect when one glass is just right) and a digital clock that projected the time on the ceiling (it sounds gimmicky; it really wasn’t). We also have to mention Rambo, the dog that stood watch in our hallway.

During our stay, we never made it to the rooftop bar, although judging from the wait for an elevator in the evening hours, the bar is a popular spot. Before heading to the wedding, we did have time for a quick drink at the second-floor bar and restaurant, which was buzzing when we were there – always nice to see. And the coffee shop attached to the hotel made tasty cappuccinos and flat whites.

In our estimation, the Virgin managed to provide a high-quality hotel experience without taking itself too seriously. That’s not easy to do, and we think the balance was just about right: playful, yet grown up. We’ll add the Virgin to our list of preferred Chicago hotels.

Stay details

  • Virgin Hotels Chicago
  • Location: Lake and Wabash, downtown Chicago
  • Our stay: 2 nights, November 1 and 2
  • Room: Suite 1911

Where we ate, what we did

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Ålesund, Norway ~ Hotel Brosundet

September 2019

Ålesund is one of the most unique towns in Norway, and it was an obvious choice for a visit during a trip to Norway. A charming and easily-encompassed city, Ålesund is renowned for its Art Nouveau architecture. Because we would be there only one night, it was important to find a hotel close to the center of town, and the Hotel Brosundet had an excellent location right on the water and within walking distance of the entire city center.

First, some history

Ålesund’s charm came at a terrible price. On a night in January 1904, most of the city, built predominantly of wood, was destroyed by fire. Fortunately, Kaiser Wilhelm of Germany had spent time in the area and came to the rescue, providing needed materials and skilled workers to rebuild. And this time the city would be built of brick and stone in the then-popular Jugendstil or Art Nouveau style. Since much of the city was rebuilt in a relatively short period of time, the city center has a remarkable uniformity of style.

img_0798A place by the water

Hotel Brosundet was an easy choice for lodging. The family-owned hotel has a sterling reputation and is right in the center of town overlooking a picturesque inlet. The hotel building was originally a warehouse, and the hotel conversion is a design-lover’s dream. Our room was well-appointed, but the real delight was the view out over the water.

In good hands

As much as we think we know what goes into a great hotel experience, sometimes it’s the intangibles that take a hotel from good to great. Hotel Brosundet checks all the obvious boxes: location, service, quality of rooms and dining, and so on. But there is something more here: a sense that you’re in good hands, almost as though you’re at home, relaxing and immersed in a comforting atmosphere.

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Worth the effort

Norway is replete with jaw-dropping scenery, so it’s no wonder Norwegians love to be outside, and seemingly every town has hiking amenities right at the doorstep. Ålesund is no exception. If you want a bit of exercise, find your way to the city park at the top of Lyhauggata and look for the stairs that take you to the top of Aksla Hill. It’s a bit of a climb, but there are plenty of resting places along the way, and at each one, you’ll gaze in wonderment at the scenery. The view from the top is no less than spectacular. Your effort will be rewarded with a fine view looking down at the town and various islands as the fiords give way to the Atlantic Ocean.

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Stay details

  • Hotel Brosundet
  • Location: , Ålesund Norway
  • Our stay: 1 night, September 16, 2019
  • Room 2009, harbor view room

What we ate, what we did

  • Dinner and breakfast in the hotel–excellent
  • A walk through town
  • A hike to the top of Aksla Hill for a wonderful view

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Longyearbyen, Svalbard, Norway ~ Basecamp Hotel

September 2019

IMG_0975While researching various destinations for our trip to Norway, we learned that it was fairly easy to travel to the city of Longyearbyen in the Svalbard archipelago. Although Svalbard is closer to the North Pole than to much of Norway, it belongs to the latter, and SAS Airlines has regularly-scheduled flights from Oslo. So how could the opportunity be missed? Svalbard is a place that superlatives were made for: otherworldly scenery, one-sixth of the world’s polar bears, prime aurora borealis viewing, whales, and numerous glaciers (for now), not to mention the world’s northernmost commercial airport, the northernmost statue of Lenin, and, importantly, the northernmost craft brewery in the world–Svalbard Bryggeri.

Adventure awaits

img_1023With the exception of a handful of mostly abandoned mining towns, Longyearbyen is the only city on the entire archipelago, and it contains almost all of the lodging options. Fortunately those options are excellent. With a bit of internet research, we chose Basecamp Hotel, a part of the Basecamp Explorer collection of adventure hotels. We also learned that Basecamp Hotel is a good resource for arranging adventures to see more of Svalbard.

Rustic charm with a side of kitsch

Basecamp is kitted out like a trapper’s cabin with furs, rustic woodwork, thick blankets, and a plethora of arctic paraphernalia throughout the property. The hotel is small, and the staff is very welcoming. The overall impression is one of coziness and warmth, which is much appreciated as a contrast to the arctic scenery outside.

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Amenities plus

During our stay, the hotel never struck a wrong note. The room was clean and comfy, with plenty of hooks for jackets and gear. The woolen window coverings were a nice touch, as was the little table-and-chairs ensemble. The good Wi-Fi was an unexpected bonus, and the absence of a television in the room (or anywhere on the property as far as we could tell) was very much appreciated. The breakfast offering was excellent, and the coffee was very good (something we found to be the norm throughout Norway). We even appreciated the hotel’s request that guests remove their shoes at the front door, which is a custom that has carried over from the town’s mining days when miner’s shoes were always covered with coal dust.

 

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Longyearbyen: more than expected

Longyearbyen surprised with its amenities: a post office, a bank with an ATM, a grocery store, a good selection of bars and restaurants to satisfy almost any taste, and a wonderful coffee shop with friendly staff. Notably, Svalbard Museum punches well above its weight; don’t miss it.

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Svalbard Museum

It was particularly fun to watch the local children making their way down the pedestrian lane to school, and we happened to be there on the day of the Global Climate Strike when Longyearbyen’s students marched through town and gave speeches. These were made all the more urgent when we considered that Svalbard is expected to be severely impacted by climate change in coming years.

Plenty to do

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Nordenskiöld glacier

Unless you want to confine your stay to Longyearbyen, it’s important to make reservations for any Svalbard adventures or excursions before you visit. Depending on the length of your stay, you can arrange activities that take up to a full week or more. Because we had only two days, we chose a day-long excursion aboard the MS Polargirl to visit Pyramiden, a mostly-abandoned Russian mining town, and the Nordenskiöld glacier. This excursion — a last-minute choice when our original booking, a hike to the Global Seed Vault, was cancelled — was helpfully arranged by the staff at Basecamp Hotel.

Stay details

  • Basecamp Hotel
  • Location: Longyearbyen, Svalbard, Norway
  • Our stay: 2 nights, September 18 & 19, 2019
  • Room 3

What we ate, what we did

A helpful website

  • The Visit Svalbard website was a very helpful resource for excursions and general information. Highly recommended.

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