Author: wnwyatt

Paris, France ~ Maison Souquet

October 2023

This stay in Paris, our first in 15 years, came after spending four days in Lyon in the modern, light, and airy Villa Maïa. For Paris, where we had four more days, we wanted something that would match the mood of the city and of Montmarte, the neighborhood we would call our home base. Searching for the right hotel in Paris can be overwhelming – there are just so very many choices – but Maison Souquet kept appearing on our go-to lists, so we decided to give it a go. When we made our booking, only two “De Luxe” rooms were available for all four nights, and the team at Maison Souquet sent pictures and helpfully described the features of both: peaceful courtyard view or street view of Paris rooftops; a small balcony four floors up or windows on the first floor; shower or deep bath. They also promised to let us know if a larger junior suite became available for the duration of our visit. With Paris Fashion Week just ending and the World Cup Rugby Championships arriving in the city along with us, we were glad to secure a room.

Sumptuous all around

Maison Souquet is steps from the Blanche metro station down one of the streets that run south from the Moulin Rouge. It’s officially in the 9th arrondissement, right at the bottom of Montmarte. As a former brothel (the hotel is named after its madame) the hotel’s exterior is unassuming, and the two red lights outside the front door were the landmarks we used to find it the first time and on all of our returns. Immediately upon entering on our initial arrival, we felt as if we had entered a secret sanctuary in plain sight of the hustle and bustle – and quite honestly, the tourist spectacle – just outside. The hotel’s sumptuous design embraced us: low lights, dark hues with voluptuous textiles on the furniture and the walls, a candle burning with the hotel’s signature scent, and a warm welcome from two members of the Maison Souquet team. It was so different from our typical tastes, but oh-so beautiful.

As one staff member attended to our registration details, another gave us an introduction to the hotel, walking us through the multiple rooms on the ground floor that the brothel’s “guests” would visit: the reception to meet Madame Souquet, the inner salon (now the hotel’s beautiful bar) to meet the women of the brothel, and the parlor where men could have a pre-departure refreshment. We also got a description of the basement spa, which is available for private use by guests, and an offer to use the lovely backgammon and chess sets displayed on a shelf in the salon. By the time we were done with our tour, our luggage had been delivered to our room, and we were escorted up.

Petite Marguerite

Upon advice of the hotel team, we had chosen the Marguerite room on the fourth floor, a room with Chinese-inspired design. (All of the rooms are named for women who purportedly worked at the brothel and have designs inspired by locations touched by the French empire). Like the common areas on the first floor, our room was decadently beautiful. It was small – not much room for more than a bed and a few beside tables – but the deep red and gold textiles with shiny black lacquer accents created a coziness that made the size feel just right.

The balcony overlooked the buildings across rue de Bruxelles and brought in the sunshine during the day. Even though the room was petite, we found a place for all of our things and even managed to stow our luggage away in the spacious closet. Our first night in the Maison Souquet brought heavy rain overnight, which we could hear and smell through the open window, and a fantastic sleep with dreams of Paris from days gone by.

…And the less petite but equally charming Païva

On our way to coffee on our first full day in Paris, we learned that the hotel had just received a cancellation for a junior suite, and we were offered the upgrade. We had settled into the Marguerite but thought it would be fun to stay in a second room and also enjoy a little more space for our next three nights. La Païva, on the third floor, gave us more breathing room with a chaise lounge and coffee table, a separate toilet room, and two windows that, this time, looked out to the courtyard. The yellow and black textiles and upholstery were an homage to the Far East, and we especially loved the portrait of the goddess-like woman above the chaise.

Pulling off design like this is not easy. For it to work, it has to be impeccable. No scratches, no stains, no smudges (on the many glass surfaces we encountered in both rooms), nothing crooked or wobbly or drippy. And Maison Souquet did pull it off, in every respect but one. In both rooms, a glaze finish on the black tile floor had begun to peel; at first, we thought the uneven surface was by design, but then we noticed the flakes and knew it wasn’t purposeful. But this won’t last. On our last night during turndown service, the hotel left a feedback card and we made a note – the only suggestion amidst our effusive comments. On our flight home, we received an email from the hotel’s general manager who thanked us for the compliments and noted that the floors are scheduled for repair the next month.

Not to be missed: drinks and a swim

Each night at Maison Souquet, we enjoyed fabulous cocktails in the bar. At the beginning of the week, the scene was quiet and relaxed with hotel guests. By the time Thursday and Friday arrived, we were joined by patrons from around Paris, many of whom looked like they had come directly from one of the Paris Fashion Week shows (from the runways of those shows). In every experience, the bartenders were attentive and generous with advice about their favorite drinks and nibbles. We were just visitors from a Midwestern American city, but we always felt like VIPs. 

This feeling was amplified by the time we spent in the hotel’s spa – just the two of us because we had reserved it all for ourselves. For each night of our stay, we were invited to spend an hour of “privatized” time in the spa. At the designated time, a Maison Souquet staff member picked us up in our room and delivered us downstairs where a ten-meter pool and hammam (steam room) awaited. As the staff member was leaving, she pointed to fresh glasses of water, fluffy towels, the post-spa shower, and a phone on the bench, which she said she would ring five minutes before she would pop down to pick us up. Let’s just say, if every spa experience were like this one, we might never get out to explore the cities on our trips.

A beautiful hotel made more wonderful by exceptional staff

Both of our stays in France during this holiday – in Lyon and Paris – were characterized by truly exceptional service. To a person –in email and in-person communications – every exchange we had with the team at Maison Souquet was top-notch. The staff was knowledgeable and helpful but also friendly and never stuffy. They seemed genuinely happy to see us, whether it was during our arrival, on a stop in the middle of the day, or at an early-morning check-out. After our visit, we had a few email exchanges with the hotel manager who had reached out after we left our feedback card. He said he had shared our praises with the team. We hope they all know what good work they do.

Stay details:

  • Maison Souquet, Paris, France, 9th arrondissement bordering Montmarte
  • 4-night stay: October 10-14, 2023
  • De Luxe Room (Marguerite) and Junior Suite (La Païva II)

What we did, where we ate:

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Lyon, France ~ Villa Maïa

October 2023

Copenhagen was our intended destination for a fall 2023 holiday, but by the time we got around to making arrangements, flights to that city were very full. For whatever reason, flights to Paris, which are, happily, direct from Minneapolis, had a little more breathing room. We decided to spend the latter part of our holiday in France’s capitol but wanted to visit a new place as well. Lyon is a favorite of some of our friends – the “best city in France” they’ve claimed – and we had only passed through, so we decided to spend the first part of our fall vacation there. From Paris, a two-hour TGV train got us to Lyon, and a 15-minute taxi ride took us to the top of Fourvière Hill and to Villa Maïa.

“Just the hotel Lyon needed”

When we’re choosing a hotel, we typically start with a few go-to sources: The (London) Telegraph, Forbes, The New York Times. A 2017 article in Forbes written a few months after Villa Maïa opened, called it “just the hotel Lyon needed” – a “refreshingly contemporary hotel” in a UNESCO-designated historic city. We tend to prefer modern design, and the pictures showed stunning views of the city from the hotel’s hilltop locale. What’s more, we knew our Paris hotel would be intimate and cozy, so the idea of a light-filled, airy property in Lyon seemed to be a nice contrast.

Upon arrival in the early afternoon, we were greeted by Julien, one of two fabulous concierges who had worked with us prior to our arrival (more on this team below). Our room wasn’t quite ready, so Julien gave us an orientation to Fourvière Hill and sent us to see a few sites and grab a cocktail at Bulle, a bar with a lovely view next to Basilica Notre Dame de Fourvière. When we returned, our bags had already been delivered to our room, and we were introduced to the hotel’s amenities – a breakfast room, library, bar, spa and gym – before being brought to our home for the next four nights, a city-view room on the second floor.

Two floors up, but on top of the city

Upon entering our room, we were both drawn to the balcony and the view of Lyon. A wall of glass separated the room from the balcony, so the balcony truly felt like an extension of the room. And because October had been extraordinarily warm, the balcony was a lovely place to be at all times of day and night. Inside, the spacious, light-filled room was decorated in neutral tones with splashes of color to add some fun. All in all, the room had a minimalist approach to design, which we always appreciate. The exception was the desk/storage unit opposite the bed, the surface of which was nearly covered with a coffee maker and kettle, mugs and espresso cups, glasses and bottles of water (re-filled whenever needed), and hotel information. We used all of these things and appreciated them, but ideally, it would have been nice to have a place to hide them away and de-clutter that part of the room. Generally speaking, though, there was plenty of storage, and we were able to fully unpack and stow our suitcases out of view, which we always appreciate.

The lovely Carrara marble bathroom had a deep soaking tub with a window out to the bedroom, a large shower with a built-in bench, and a separate closet with a Japanese toilet that doubled as a bidet. Fluffy robes and towels, custom bath products and under-sink storage for our own toiletries made the bathroom feel luxurious.

Inviting us out of our room

Some of the best spaces in our favorite hotels are the common spaces, and at Villa Maïa, we found lots of spots to linger: a bar with its own balcony, a library overlooking a lovely garden, a breakfast room with outdoor tables for warm days, and a spa reminiscent of a Roman bath (Fourvière Hill was once a Roman city, and ruins of a theatre, an aqueduct and a bath feature prominently).

On one afternoon, we had the pleasure of being the only guests in the spa and relished having the pool, the hot tub and the steam room (hammam) to ourselves. Breakfast each morning was no less indulgent. French cheeses, croissants and pastries, fruits and yogurts, eggs made to order, wonderful coffee, and freshly squeezed apple juice fueled us for the day; we justified our consumption by noting that the climb up Fourvière Hill from Old Lyon (Vieux Lyon) was a workout, and by promising to take the funicular railway only going down.

An exceptional team

Even before we arrived, the Villa Maïa team went into action to ensure a top-notch visit. Julien and François, the hotel’s concierge duo, helped with train reservations and several bookings at Lyon restaurants (Lyon is recognized as a center of French gastronomy). All of these were outlined on a printed itinerary left in our room. During our stay, the two were always available and helped us tailor our visit to the things we really enjoy. And while the concierge team was terrific, the services didn’t stop with Julien and François. Without exception, everyone we encountered at Villa Maïa was top-notch: from the front desk team (at all hours) and the housekeeping staff to the bar and breakfast staff.

A property that invites a big exhale

Lyon is a bustling city with lots to see and do and, like all cities, can seem frenetic, particularly on lovely fall days when the city happens to be hosting the World Cup of Rugby, and tourists are everywhere. We love that kind of energy but also love having a place to unwind a bit and take a breath. For us, Villa Maïa was just the place. We started each day looking out over a serene garden and ended it, from the calm of our balcony, watching the city very slowly go to sleep. We are already talking about our next visit to Lyon – perhaps coupled with a trip back to the Piemonte region in Italy – and Villa Maïa will certainly be part of that visit.

Stay details:

  • Villa Maïa, Lyon, France, Fourvière Hill
  • 4-night stay: October 5-10, 2023
  • City-view room

What we did, where we ate:

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Sinio, Italy ~ Hotel Castello di Sinio

October 2022

Both of us have been big fans of the wines of Piemonte, particularly those crafted with the Nebbiolo grape, and we were looking for a place to stay in the Barolo wine region from where we could explore all the area had to offer. After much research, we chose Hotel Castello di Sinio, located in the small village of Sinio just outside the official boundary of Barolo proper. We knew we would need a rental car to fully experience the area, and Sinio was well-placed to put us close to all of the beautiful small towns and famous vineyards of Barolo.

A warm welcome to Barolo

Our travel plans had us flying from Amsterdam to Turin, at which point we picked up our rental car and headed south through Piemonte and toward the hills of the Langhe. As we drove deeper into the wine region, the flat agricultural land of the Po Valley gave way to rolling hills and vineyards. The scenery was spectacular, with historic hilltop villages poised above the vineyards cascading down the hillsides below.

We arrived at the hotel and were warmly greeted by the hotel staff. We had no sooner completed the brief check-in process when the proprietor, Denise Pardini, took us under her wing. Denise not only owns and operates the hotel but is also an expert in the culture, food, and wine of the region. She asked us about our plans and spent well over an hour giving us a primer on the wines of Barolo, the geology and soils, the characteristics of the many vineyard areas within Barolo, tips on travel, which towns to visit, where to eat, and much more. Denise and her team were incredibly helpful throughout our stay.

Sleeping close to God

After our introduction to all things Barolo, we were led to our room. On the short walk across the courtyard area, we noted the beautiful hotel grounds, green and refreshing after our journey.

We’ve stayed in many unique places, but even by our standards, the room was a standout. Sleeping in the former chapel of the castello, complete with a stone arched ceiling in the bedroom, was — pun intended — heavenly. The castello’s history permeated our quarters, from our giant door key to the meter-thick walls. We had a spacious bedroom (the chapel), a sitting room with two sofas, and a bathroom, all of which had windows that opened to the autumn Piemontese breeze. The decor was a little over-the-top for our taste, but it felt true to the property, and the theme played out throughout the hotel. It was clear that all of the choices were intentional and showcased the owner’s design sense. One of our favorite touches was the turn-down service with a unique quote for each day.

We had one minor irritation: the hand-held shower head leaked badly, making bathing a challenge. B we reported this at the end of the stay, and we’re confident the problem has been remedied.

A retreat within a wine wonderland

At check-in, when we asked about restaurants, Denise, the hotellier, pointed out that we probably wouldn’t need lunch after enjoying a breakfast at the hotel. She was right. Each morning, we sat outside under a vine-covered arbor and filled up on cappucino, expertly prepared egg goodies that varied by day, local produce, and pastries. If we didn’t have fun adventures ahead of us, it would have been quite hard to leave the table.

The hotel also featured a small pool with amazing views of Sinio and the Barolo hills; more than a few times we imbibed in a glass of Barolo poolside, while watching the hotel cats frolic — or, more often, nap — around the grounds. The weather was beautiful, so we spent most of our time at the hotel outside, but the property also featured a small but inviting lobby full of wine books and a tiny bar, a restaurant that serves up delicious Peimontese specialities, and a breakfast room. The hotel was once the castle — or manor house — for Sinio, standing at the very top of the hilltop village, so we also enjoyed exploring Sineo’s narrow, steep streets, its village church, and the local bocce court where locals congregated each evening.

What we did, where we ate

Stay details:

  • Hotel Castello di Sinio, vicolo del castello, 1, 12050 Sinio CN, Italy
  • 4-night stay: October 5-9, 2022
  • Chapel Suite: Room 16

What we did, where we ate:

Wine-related:

  • Wine Class: Introduction to the wines and terrior of Barolo. This was an excellent intro taught by the Castello proprietor Denise.
  • Wine Class: Intro to Wines of the Langhe. Taught by local wine expert Evan Byrnelah at the Castello.
  • Wine Class: Barolo Master Class. Taught by Stefano Moiso at Enoteca La Vite Turchese in the town of Barolo. Highly recommended.
  • Winery visit to Mazoni Giovanni in Monforte d’Alba. Graciously hosted by Mirella Manzone.

Eating and drinking:

Outings and adventures:

  • Truffle Hunt with Guiseppe, Giacomo and Luna the truffle-sniffing dog. Arranged by the Castello. The hunt took place off of Via Conforso near Valle Talloria. A wonderful experience.
  • Gelato at La Regale Nocciole after a wrong turn.
  • International Alba White Truffle Fair.
  • Visits to the towns of Serralunga, Barolo, Castiglione Falletto, Monforte, and Serravalle.

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San Juan, Puerto Rico ~ El Convento Hotel

May 2023

For a delayed holiday in the sun, we wanted to try someplace new and, truth be told, Costa Rica was our original choice. Once we started getting into the travel details, however, Costa Rica ended up being a little more challenging to get to with our airline of choice (Delta) on the days we were traveling, so we opted for Puerto Rico instead – also a new destination for us and a direct return flight from Minneapolis. For the second part of our stay, we booked the St. Regis Bahia Beach Resort based on a New York Times article from several years ago. (Read more about the St. Regis in this post.) For the first part of our Puerto Rico visit, we were inspired by a colleague who had recently combined a Mexico City stay with a follow-up visit to a Yucatan beach; following her lead, we spent the first four days of our holiday in Puerto Rico’s capital city of San Juan. And after doing some research on neighborhoods, we chose Old San Juan and the city’s most historic hotel: El Convento.

The heart of the old city

Almost immediately upon our arrival, we could sense that El Convento serves as Old San Juan’s living room. A Thursday afternoon wedding was taking place in the courtyard, a tour group was gathered outside the main doors listening to the story of the hotel’s history, and visitors – maybe hotel guests/maybe not – lingered at the many seating areas on the hotel’s outdoor passageways.

Upon check-in, the reception staffer told us the hotel was fully booked for the length of our stay, although we later learned that many rooms were closed for renovation. Even with that reduced occupancy, the hotel bustled with activity throughout our stay, and although we would have preferred some peace and quiet on one of the nights when dancing from a wedding went well past midnight, it was fun to be someplace that felt like a favorite of Puerto Ricans, not just a choice for tourists.

El Convento isn’t only the social center of Old San Juan; it also happens to be at the geographic center, midway down Calle del Cristo right next to the San Juan Bautista cathedral. This turned out to be really convenient when we needed a brief stop for the restroom, water, or sunscreen on our many city explorations. From anywhere in Old San Juan, we could get back to the hotel in just about ten minutes. For a busy – and, in late May, very hot – city, we appreciated being able to take frequent refreshment breaks.

A nun’s quarters

The hotel’s common spaces were, by far, our favorite places to spend time: the verandas and balconies, the plunge pool, the covered patio, the massive courtyard. Our room on the second floor was a fine example of the building’s Spanish Colonial architecture with its tall ceilings, plaster walls, red tile floors and shuttered balcony doors. It also featured period antique furniture that one of the staff members said was authentic and could only be repaired by a craftsperson in the Dominican Republic (we weren’t entirely sold on this story, but we liked the idea of it).

El Convento is a member of both the “small luxury hotels of the world” and “historic hotels of America” groups. And while the hotel is certainly historic, we wouldn’t call it luxurious. In fact, our room was a little tired. We don’t need lavish but do appreciate rooms that have been well cared for and kept up. In our room, many of the finishes, furnishings, and fixtures needed attention: upholstery with stains, a broken shutter on the patio door, glass that needed a good dose of Windex, missing beams in the ceiling (they were modern replacements), and paint bubbles on the wall (likely the result of high humidity). The bathroom, while very small, was actually the most well-functioning part of the room; it appeared to have gotten a more recent refresh.

We’re sure that keeping up a building originally erected in the 16th century is a constant challenge, and we don’t mind small reminders of the constant churn of people moving in and out of hotel rooms, but our room was definitely due for an update. And we’re hoping it is on the list for upcoming renovations, as it could be stunning.

Service and amenity standards

One of the best things about a hotel is often its staff, and we’ve gotten exceptional service at hotels around the world. Everyone at El Convento was friendly and helpful, and when we checked in, we were given an introduction to the hotel’s services and amenities. Like the renovation, however, this commitment felt like a work in progress. Requests for things like replacement water glasses seemed to fall into a void; the nightly manager’s cocktail reception – introduced in a welcome letter – wasn’t really nightly; and the front-desk staff didn’t seem well versed in helping with things like dinner reservations. We don’t need or expect concierge-level services and can easily fend for ourselves, but when a destination promises a certain standard, we do think it should work hard to deliver on those promises.

Even with these criticisms, we’re glad we stayed at El Convento. It is the “grand dame” of the old city and an important landmark. When we come back to San Juan, we’ll surely return to the old city, maybe next time trying El Convento’s sister hotel, the newly opened Hotel Palacio Provincial, which is right around the corner from El Convento in a building that once served as the Department of State. From our visit to Palacio Provincial for dinner, it looks like a hotel that mixes historic architecture with more modern design, and as of May 2023, everything is sparkling and fresh.

Puerto Rico bonus entry: Because of a cancelled flight on the way back to Minneapolis, we stayed an extra night in Puerto Rico at the Condado Vanderbilt.

Stay details:

  • El Convento Hotel, center of Old San Juan, Puerto Rico
  • 4-night stay, May 25 – 29, 2023
  • Queen Vista room

What we did, where we ate:

Eating and Drinking

Outings and Adventures

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Rio Grande, Puerto Rico ~ The St. Regis Bahia Beach Resort

June 2023

Back in August 2018, we were reading the Sunday New York Times and came across an article headlined “10 Travel Writers, 10 Hotels.” We saved the article and marked the St. Regis as a property we’d love to visit someday. The Times article highlighted the property’s status as the first and only certified gold Audubon international signature sanctuary in the Caribbean, and we loved the idea of combining a resort vacation with adventures in nature.

Five years later, we finally managed to book the trip. Because this was our first visit to Puerto Rico and because we tend to like city vacations, we preceded our stay at the St. Regis with five days in Old San Juan at the Hotel El Convento. (Read more about the El Convento in this post.) The combination ended up being terrific: exploring a bustling city and then moving into full relaxation mode on the beach.

Truly spectacular environs

The 2018 Times article described driving through the gates as “feeling like penetrating a secret world: Lush tropical plants and flowers flanked quiet footpaths that snaked around palm trees and low-slung buildings.” We had the same experience; everywhere we looked was green, green, green, punctuated by bright reds, oranges, and yellows of seasonal flowers. During our five-day stay, we spent a lot of time meandering slowly down the paths between the resort’s buildings, keeping our eyes open for lizards, frogs, and birds of all kinds. While the iguanas got the most attention (a favorite memory is watching one swim across the pool among the guests), we loved the smaller lizards and the resident chango birds with their recently hatched chicklets that were just learning to fly.

With 483 acres to explore, we found lots of ways to keep busy. We biked around the entire property, making stops at the organic farm, the dog shelter, the inflatable water park, the bird sanctuary, and the tennis center. We walked along the two-mile beach, finding sand dollars to decorate the roped-off areas where sea turtles had recently laid eggs. And we peeked at the multi-million-dollar vacation homes under construction on either side of the resort. The ocean was calm and warm, so in between adventures, we waded in to watch massive brown pelicans dive for fish. And, of course, we found time for dips in the multi-tiered pool and for lounging poolside under the shade of an umbrella.

A cool (in many ways) escape from outdoor adventures

Our room – a garden-view king suite – served as a nice retreat when we needed an air-conditioned break from the sun. The welcome foyer with honor bar; the sunny bedroom; the walk-in closet; and the roomy, spa-like bathroom with a deep tub and one of the biggest showers we’ve seen (really, a shower room)…all were functionally just right. The spaces had a focus on rest and revitalization with plenty of life’s little luxuries: Frette linens, polvorones (a Spanish cookie) delivered nightly, Nespresso coffee, Sodashi and Sachajuan bath and body products, a stack of current magazines (Vanity Fair, Architectural Digest, Bienvenidos), a well-stocked liquor cabinet, and Bluetooth speakers. Loads of storage made it easy to hide any evidence that we were visitors rather than residents, and the patio with a lovely garden view was sheltered from the sun and featured a cushiony daybed.

The room wasn’t quite pristine – the wallpaper in the separate toilet room buckled a little, and there were a few small scratches in the bedside tables – but it was clear the room received regular attention from not just the housekeepers but from maintenance staff as well. Design-wise, the choices were safe – what we’d call beach neutral – but that approach left more attention to be given to the stunning gardens outside.

Butler service?

The St. Regis makes a big deal of its service. We received several emails in advance of our stay asking for preferences and offering to assist with any of our needs. And when we arrived, we were walked to our room by our “day butler,” who introduced us to all of the room’s features and made arrangements for morning French press coffee, dinner that night and preferred times for daily housekeeping and turndown services. The butler was lovely, and we expected we would be seeing her or a colleague in future days when we had a request. But that didn’t end up being the case, and while we called the butler number on the phone a few times, we never saw our butler again. This isn’t a complaint; we really don’t need someone at our beck and call, but it did seem a little odd. And it also seemed odd that the arrangements we made on that first day seemed to get lost in the system; our coffee never arrived; the housekeeper arrived early; and our dinner reservation was missing. Other service confusions during our stay made us think this is an issue with the system, not with any individual staff member. It may also have been that our last name was quite similar to another guest. On a handful of occasions, we were greeted by that guest’s name, and we think some of our arrangements may have ended up there.

Setting aside these mix-ups, which were really not a problem because they were always quickly remedied, every staff member with whom we dealt, without exception, was delightful, and we had fun conversations with several members of the St. Regis team. It was pretty obvious that all employees were expected to say good morning/afternoon/evening to every guest they encountered, but the friendliness from folks we exchanged more than a greeting with seemed genuine, and we loved getting to know them just a bit. Special thanks go out to everyone who shared their sea turtle stories with us!

Puerto Rico bonus entry: Because of a cancelled flight on the way back to Minneapolis, we stayed an extra night in Puerto Rico at the Condado Vanderbilt.

Stay details:

What we did, where we ate:

  • Pool and beach time — swimming iguanas, diving pelicans, nesting sea turtles, baby birds just learning to fly, sand dollar searching
  • Breakfast and lunches at Seagrapes
  • Dinner at St. Regis Bar
  • Cycling around the resort
  • Dinner at Paros
  • Visit to El Junque Rainforest with guide Ricky
    • coquis, snails and lizards
    • rainbow trees, torch gingers
    • Torre Yokahu tower, CCC Grande Bano, La Coca Falls
  • Dinner at the Beach Club

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Excelsior, MN, USA ~ Hotel Excelsior

January 2023

In January in Minnesota, winter is still fun – a bit of a novelty after a hot, green summer and a cool, orange fall. And this winter has brought lots of snow, which can make parts of the Twin Cities feel like a ski resort town, sans the mountain views. To live happily in the “Bold North,” it’s important to get out in the cold and snow, and there’s more than enough to do. We may not have mountains, but the hiking, cross country skiing, snowperson building, winter beer gardens, ice fishing and snowmobiling (the latter two are not our thing, but still a big part of MN life) can make winter tolerable and even enjoyable.

During this three-day weekend in mid-January, we were determined to do all the winter things we love but also to get out of the house and try something new. The Hotel Excelsior, which we have had our eyes on since it opened in spring 2021, had a vacancy, and we saw it as an opportunity to see Lake Minnetonka in January.

The verdict: charmed.

All we needed and more

Hotel Excelsior is a small hotel – four rooms that sit atop a coffee shop and a Faribault Woolen Mills store  – without traditional guest services. On the day of arrival, guests receive a text (or email) with entry codes, check-in/out information, and a phone number with an offer to help with whatever is needed. We asked for some restaurant recommendations and got a prompt reply. We typically prefer hotels to VRBOs or Airbnbs, and Hotel Excelsior’s approach seemed a little more like a vacation rental than a hotel, but as we relaxed in our room with a cocktail after a seamless “check-in” and before heading out to one of those restaurant recommendations, we reflected on what we really need from a hotel. In this case, a lobby with 24-hour guest assistance and services like daily housekeeping didn’t seem important.

In our estimation, the best feature of our room – the Smithtown Bay Suite – was the six windows that run the length of the space; the view down to Water Street was terrific, and two suites in the hotel – ours and the St. Alban’s suite – have this orientation. (We did hear from another guest that she prefers the other two suites because they have a separate bedroom. To each their own.) Beyond the windows, our room had a full kitchen, a spacious seating area, a king-sized bed and a roomy bathroom with an even roomier shower. One of us described the room’s décor as “lakey.” It did, admittedly, have lots of references to Lake Minnetonka, including a few coffee table books that we had fun paging through. We also appreciated the “Hotel Excelsior” pillow on the bed, which, upon closer inspection, was a reference to Hotel Excelsior in Milan (maybe this one?). After recently returning from northern Italy, it was a welcome déjà vu.

In our short stay, we experienced just a few hiccups. We found only one robe in the room for the two of us. The hot water in the shower was only marginally hot. The kitchen sink was a little slow to drain. And the keyless entry to the room was a little hard to see at night. But these are minor quibbles and easily remedied. All in all, we appreciated the evident care and attention to detail given to the room since the hotel’s opening.

A new weekend getaway

For a getaway that feels much more “away” than it really is, we semi-regularly head east from our house to Stillwater, Minnesota, and stay in either the Lora or the Crosby. We more rarely go west from central Minneapolis, mostly because there seem to be fewer options. And while we’ve stopped by Excelsior on our way to other destinations, before this stay, we had never lingered for more than an hour or two. With Hotel Excelsior, we now have a new go-to when we want a change of scenery and a special treat within our hometown.

Stay details

What we did, where we ate

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New York City, USA ~ ModernHaus SoHo

December 2022

During our visits to New York City, we’ve come to love SoHo, and we have a favorite place to stay — the Crosby Street Hotel — but an Architectural Digest article on 11 new design-centric hotels in NYC described ModernHaus as “a case study in color and an homage to the postwar Bauhaus movement.” As lovers of all things concrete, we couldn’t resist.

It’s about the building…and the view

One of us grew up in a concrete house — designed by an architect dad — so modernist/brutalist/Bauhaus designs have always held an attraction. When we arrived at ModernHaus we pulled right up to the front door and didn’t get a look at the building itself. It wasn’t until an hour later when we headed out for a walk and saw the structure sitting in juxtaposition to the more classic SoHo cast iron facades and rising decidedly skyward. In fact, the front door of ModernHaus in on the intimate Grand Street, and it adjoins its neighbor on that lane, but two sides of the hotel are surrounded by small parks, big avenues (Canal Street and Sixth Avenue), and an approach to the Holland Tunnel. That makes a view of the whole building possible from the outside and the view looking out from inside just about as “storybook New York” as you can get.

The exterior of ModernHaus
Two walls of windows
Looking downtown from our room

Almost everything in ModernHaus is oriented vertically. The small lobby is all that occupies the first floor. Up a handful of steps in the restaurant, Veranda, and then the hotel’s lobby and bar occupy the second floor. Up top on the 18th floor, is the rooftop bar and long-time neighborhood staple, Jimmy’s. Even with its relatively small footprint, the hotel features more outdoor space per room than any other hotel in downtown Manhattan, according to a Forbes article on ModernHaus. We’ll admit that we didn’t take time to thoroughly explore these spaces, even though the New York City weather was amazingly mild for late-December.

Our room, a skyline king studio on the 11th floor, had stunning views of the financial district to the south (including the World Trade Center buildings), but also west toward the New Jersey skyline. The only thing obstructing the two walls of windows in our corner room was a TV mounted to the concrete pillar. While it did interrupt the scene, we understand that hotel guests expect a TV, and all the glass in the room really didn’t allow for another spot.

Nice touches but a few distractions

We arrived in our room to a bottle of chilled Cava, a cream puff (which was delicious even two days later when we finally got around to eating it), and a welcome note from the guest services manager. (As an aside, we’ll say that the staff was attentive and helpful and got us an on-the-spot booking at a restaurant where we could satisfy our paella craving.) When we managed to pull ourselves away from the view, we found a room that was well-designed and functional, and it offered more breathing room than many NYC hotels. The wrap-around windows, the high-ceilings and glass wall into the bathroom (with a mechanical blind) made the room airy and light-filled. We also appreciated that we could open the windows each night to allow in the fresh air; that — in combination with the Beautyrest “Black” mattress and Frette linens — made for a very good night’s sleep.

While we have much good to say about ModernHaus, there were a few misses. Perhaps because we’ve stayed in some truly exceptional properties, we were disappointed to see the wear-and-tear on the room and its furnishings, particularly considering the hotel opened as the ModernHaus fewer than two years ago (it was formerly the James Hotel but went through an extensive reimagining after being acquired by urban-development firm Thor Equities in 2017). The nicks and dings were visible reminders that many people had come and gone in the room, and then when we found both a pillowcase and a towel with stains, a sink that didn’t drain properly, and white duct tape securing something around one of the windows, the illusion of luxury faded. We know how hard it must be to keep hotels in pristine condition — and we know how carelessly guests can treat things that aren’t their own — but we’ve seen high standards maintained. Modern design leaves little room for scratches and dents; anything short of perfect detracts from the aesthetic.

All in all, the bones of ModernHaus are solid; a property with so much going for it deserves the constant attention a top-notch hotel requires.

Stay details

  • Modernhaus, Grand and Sixth in SoHo,
  • 3-night stay: December 28-31, 2022
  • Skyline King Studio, 11th floor

What we did, where we ate

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Amsterdam, The Netherlands ~ The Dylan

October 2022

Our stay at The Dylan was a long…time…coming. Two-and-a-half years to be precise. We originally made a booking for March 2020 but had to cancel when the pandemic arrived. The Dylan was kind enough to offer a credit to use by year’s end (we had prepaid). But when COVID dragged on, The Dylan extended our credit two more times, eventually until May 2022. Travel began opening up in The Netherlands in March 2022, but at that time, we couldn’t get away.

When it looked, at last, as if we could visit Amsterdam in October 2022, The Dylan once again extended our credit. In our minds, this courtesy went far above and beyond, and we wanted to make sure The Dylan realized at least some financial benefit from our stay two years after our original booking, so we upgraded our room and assured the folks at the hotel that we would, in fact, make it this time. Much to our delight, we did!

Finally, we have arrived

Upon our arrival at the hotel on the Keizersgracht Canal (we took the train from Schiphol Airport to Amsterdam Central Station and then had a lovely 10-minute walk to The Dylan) we were welcomed in to the intimate lobby to sit by the fireplace and take care of registration details. While completing the paperwork, we’ll admit that one of us was momentarily overcome with emotion; the check-in process was symbolic of the fact that we had finally made it to The Dylan after so many false starts and, on a larger scale, symbolic of the fact that we were finally travelling internationally again.

Our luggage was taken off our hands in exchange for tea and baked goods. Because we arrived at 11 am, our room wasn’t ready, but after giving us a tour of the hotel’s amenities, the reception staff pointed us in the direction of a nearby spot to get coffee and handed us a city map so we could do some exploring. They promised a phone call when our room was ready.

A truly beautiful room

After a cappuccino and walk around central Amsterdam, we returned to see if our room was ready. It was, and a member of the staff escorted us up to give a primer on the room’s features. We had chosen a junior suite with a canal view, and the view was one of the first things we noticed. Two big windows looked directly out on the Keizersgracht. But the room itself matched the view. The generously sized suite included a seating area with a love seat and two chairs, a desk for two, a well-stocked coffee/cocktails bar, and a bathroom with a deep soaker tub, a spacious shower and a separate toilet closet. The design in darker hues was modern but not cold; it felt a little masculine, which was a nice shift from the design approach we often see.

A few features of the room are worth noting. The Bose sound system with The Dylan’s playlist was queued up when we arrived and each day when we returned to the room. The playlist hit just the right tone – coincidentally, it included a song from a “neighbor,” Bon Iver – and although we played our own music once or twice, we were happy to let The Dylan choose the music. The Illy espresso machine was perfect for the few mornings when we had to wake to an alarm and needed a caffeine boost before leaving the room. We couldn’t get enough of the Aesop bath products. And after a hot shower or a nice bath, the fluffiest-ever slippers awaited.

Getting it right again…and again

The room hit all the right notes for us, but it was the service that capped off the experience and made The Dylan one of our all-time top stays. Shortly after arriving, a staff member delivered a big bottle of water, a box of Vinoos wine gummies and a handwritten note from the general manager. These little surprises continued throughout our stay, with each night’s turndown service featuring a little gift (a Dutch clogs keychain, baked goods, more wine gummies) and daily housekeeping service that replenished anything we may have used the night before.

The concierge team was top-notch and helped us with restaurant bookings and an early-morning transport to the airport. And the bartenders in the hotel bar, Occo, introduced us to some terrific local spirits.

Beyond our room

The Dylan occupies two buildings that represent classic Amsterdam architecture; from the street, the hotel blends right in with its neighbors. The front entrance sits at the far end of a lovely courtyard, and the connected buildings result in passageways made for exploring. Our room was the ideal choice for our first stay at The Dylan; the canal view is classic. But every individually designed room at the hotel looks like a stand-out, and we’d be tempted to try a different room on our next visit just to experience something new. Beyond our room, we spent time in the hotel’s lounge looking out on its inner courtyard. All of the common areas are inviting and feel like extensions of guest rooms’ living space.

Before our visit to The Dylan, it had been 30 years since we spent time in Amsterdam. For travelers from the US, the city can tend to be viewed as a transfer spot to other European destinations. But Amsterdam is a city with much to offer, and The Dylan is one of its shining stars. We can’t wait to return.

Stay details:

  • The Dylan Amsterdam, 9-Streets neighborhood on the Keizersgracht Canal
  • 4-night stay: October 6-10, 2022
  • Canal view junior suite, Room #40

What we did, where we ate:

Eating and drinking:

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Minneapolis, MN, USA ~ Four Seasons

August 2022

We’ve had some great hotel experiences in our hometown(s) of Minneapolis/St. Paul but none that we would call “five-star.” Therefore, when ground broke on the Minneapolis Four Seasons a few years ago, we immediately added it to a list of places we’d like to stay. The property opened in early summer 2022, but based on a few opening reviews, we thought it would be best to give it a handful of weeks for the team to work out some bugs. We’re glad we did. While we won’t say the hotel rises to our list of all-time favorites, it was enough to make us see our home city through fresh eyes.

Solid execution from start to finish

Because we wanted the full tourist experience, we decided to take the train from our home in downtown St. Paul to the Four Seasons in downtown Minneapolis. As we approached the front doors of the hotel with roller bags in tow, a valet greeted us and asked – in a playful and friendly way – where we were coming from and if we had walked from there. We told him we were arriving from across the river and then had a nice but quick chat about being from the same city. We would learn later that this is a Four Seasons thing – making personal connections with guests – but we have to say that it felt totally authentic.

During our two-night stay, this first experience with the valet was representative of our encounters at the hotel. From the reception staff and housekeepers to the servers and bartenders at the hotel’s two restaurants, we felt like we were dealing with pros. And we’ll admit, it had been some time since we had experienced that. The pandemic and its aftermath had understandably thrown the hospitality industry for a loop, and for the last few years we have calibrated our expectations. But with the exception of a few small things – and things we didn’t really need such as the clothes pressing serving – the Four Seasons seemed be operating on all cylinders, and we embraced it.

A room with a view

The hotel occupies 8 floors in the middle of the tower with offices below and residences above. Our room on the 24th floor delivered views of the Mississippi River and the metropolis from downtown toward the northwest suburbs. We had fun looking out the floor-to-ceiling windows and identifying landmarks we had spent time in on the ground; in fact, from the hotel, many of Minneapolis’s iconic buildings are visible. The room was thoughtfully conceived and well-executed with design-grade furnishings throughout. Everything just worked: The drapes opened upon entering. The integrated technology was advanced but intuitive. The storage allowed us to unpack our admittedly small bags and store them away (although we had a small quibble that the luggage rack couldn’t be stored in the closet without getting in the way of hanging clothes). The coffee/tea bar was well-stocked. And the bathroom was luxurious with an oversized shower and separate toilet closet. The room did, however, still feel like a room in a corporate property, which isn’t necessarily a detractor but worth noting.

The hotel’s amenities, only a few of which we took advantage – those mostly connected with food and drink – were also an appeal. (We will note that our reservation at Mara, the hotel’s restaurant, was only possible because we were staying.) And, of course, the entire property was brand new – not a scratch or dent, which added to the allure. All in all, we felt like we were having a luxurious getaway, even if we didn’t feel anything distinctively “Minneapolis” beyond the view.

Re-inspired by Minneapolis

Perhaps the best part of the Four Seasons stay was that it helped restore our belief in our city as an urban core with things happening. We had the good fortune of being at the Four Seasons on an amazing late-summer weekend, and the city felt alive. Anyone who has been paying attention knows that Minneapolis has had its challenges in the last few years, but all of the people we encountered – from diverse age groups, socioeconomic statuses, ethnicities, cultural and religious backgrounds – helped make the city feel energetic, vibrant and inviting. This may have had nothing to do with the Four Seasons, but we’ll always give the hotel credit for a weekend that re-inspired us.

Stay details:

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Taos, NM, USA ~ El Monte Sagrado

July 2022

A one-night stay at El Monte Sagrado is certainly not enough, but that’s all we had. We arrived in Taos — a party of four that included the two of us and two parents — after a terrific four-night stay in Santa Fe at a VRBO. We had two days in Taos and booked two rooms in a small, boutique hotel (Palacio de Marquesa) that, upon our arrival, we discovered was for sale and, quite frankly, felt neglected by its owners, Heritage Hotels and Resorts, Inc. The Marquesa looks to be a special place, and the staff went above and beyond to welcome us for the night we stayed. We do hope the property lands in good hands — someone who will give it the attention it deserves and restore it to its full potential. But…for our short stay, we wanted something with a little more energy and a more robust suite of hotel services. So it happens, El Monte Sagrado is part of the same ownership group, so it was an easy transfer for our second night.

From an 8-room inn to a sizable resort

The first thing we noticed about El Monte Sagrado — and the highlight — was its grounds; they were beautiful — manicured but still respectful of the Taos landscape. Each of our rooms had a patio overlooking a lush pond full of big koi, and we had fun wandering the property to see the gardens surrounding the rooms, suites and casitas. It would have been nice to have a day or two just to really appreciate the property and perhaps visit the pool and spa, but we were on the go most of the time. We did get a few hours in the early evening to enjoy a cocktail and read a book out on the patio.

A spacious, well-appointed suite, but it’s the balcony we’ll remember

Our rooms, two Native American suites, had a living room, separate bedroom and a bath with an oversized (room for plenty) shower. The rooms felt a little dark in the middle of summer, but they honored the architecture of the area where getting out of the sun is important. And we couldn’t help but imagine how cozy they would feel during a Taos winter with the kiva fireplace burning. Each room featured unique art pieces that took away any corporate edge you might otherwise feel.

El Monte Sagrado describes the garden and pond that our rooms overlooked as the “sacred circle” and the “green beating heart” of the property. We felt fortunate to have such a beautiful view and spent almost all of our time while at our room out on the patio.

Lingering pandemic effects

As with everywhere else we’ve traveled since the arrival of COVID-19, it was clear that El Monte Sagrado was dealing with the effects — and after-effects — of the pandemic. Hotels are coming back to life, but it’s hard to plan for guests and for staffing. On the morning we checked in, one very helpful staff person was covering reception and, seemingly, all guest services. During happy hour, one bartender was serving everyone; in the restaurant, we saw the attentive staff juggling more people than they could reasonably handle. And it looked like a few maintenance projects on the grounds may have been deferred simply because staff was short. Still, we couldn’t end this post without thanking three staffers at the valet stand (they referred to themselves as “the boys at El Monte”) for giving us a fabulous green chile cheeseburger recommendation.

Stay details:

  • El Monte Sagrado
  • Our stay: 1 night, July 15, 2022
  • Room: Native American Suite, #16 Shenandoah

Where we ate, what we did:

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