Hewing Hotel, Minneapolis, Minnesota ~ Hilton Tru, North Platte, Nebraska ~ The Kindler, Lincoln, Nebraska ~ Hotel Crosby, Stillwater, Minnesota
COVID-19 and hotel stays. As most travelers have found, the two don’t go well together. When the pandemic arrived in the U.S. in March, we were scheduled for a 12-day holiday in London at The Standard and in Amsterdam at The Dylan with a Eurostar journey between the two cities. Those plans got put on hold when, first, we thought we might not be able to get back from Europe and, then, when much of the world went under some sort of “stay at home order.” So we did just that until late June when it seemed okay enough for a quick night out of the house at the Hewing in Minneapolis. That was followed in mid-July by a road trip to Denver to visit family with stays in North Platte, Nebraska, at a Hilton Tru (outbound) and in Lincoln, Nebraska, at The Kindler (return). Thanksgiving brought a few days away from work and a stay at the Hotel Crosby.
Minneapolis, MN, USA ~ Hewing Hotel ~ June 2020
We had stayed at the Hewing once before and wanted a chance to get to know it better. It’s a Minneapolis favorite, and we were a bit underwhelmed on our first stay. We should have known that pandemic conditions would not lend themselves to a destination that is all about buzz — from its rooftop bar and pool to the lobby that has been called the North Loop’s (the neighborhood’s) living room. We arrived to a completely empty lobby — in fact, much of the public space on the first floor was cordoned off — and we made our way up to our room without encountering a single person. Once inside our room, we logged on to the special COVID guest information and learned that, to ensure health and safety for guests and for staff, the hotel was only booking rooms on every fourth night. We also noticed that amenities like the mini bar and decorative items like throw pillows had been removed. It all made sense, and, in fact, we had brought our own container of sanitizing cloths to give everything a quick wipe down, but it all made the room feel a little sad and empty, much like the rest of the hotel.
Our first stay at the the Hewing was in a standard king room; this time we chose a suite with the hopes of having some extra features and a good view. Our corner room was spacious and well-designed, but hopes for a good view were dashed when we walked in and saw that each of the room’s three windows began seven feet from the floor and went up from there. Even standing on the bed, we couldn’t see out. The lack of (any kind of) a view made us feel even more sealed off from the world. We contemplated asking if another room were available, but knowing all of the extra cleaning done and safety precautions taken — and because we were only staying one night — we didn’t want to cause a fuss.
So what do you do in a hotel that trades on hustle and bustle when everything that fosters that is shelved? We were able to have a masked and socially distanced drink on the rooftop. The pool was open to guests who reserved (we didn’t have swim gear), and a small group looked like they were having fun on the hot June afternoon. We took a few good walks down the nearly empty streets. And we got takeout burgers to eat back in the room while watching old movies. All in all, our Hewing stay wasn’t quite the break from pandemic world that we hoped for, but it was a welcome change of scenery and a surely safe outing.
We do have to compliment the hotel for COVID-related safety precautions taken. At a time when spending a night at any hotel might have seemed risky, we never felt like the hotel had anything less than our complete safety in mind.
We’ve made the drive between Minneapolis and Denver dozens of times, and one thing we’ve learned is that — even in normal days — the road is heavily traveled, and lodgings can be in high demand. And most of them are your garden-variety roadside inns. When we planned to make the trek to Denver once again, we knew we should book ahead, and pandemic days made us lean toward one of the bigger chains, which we thought might have a better handle on health and safety protocols (at that time, many of the more rural areas between Minneapolis and Denver were treating coronavirus pretty casually). We figured we would do our stopover in North Platte, and did a booking.com search for possibilities. Perhaps not surprisingly, the options had grown since we had last stopped in the central Nebraska town, and we had lots of choices. Having never tried the Hilton Tru brand — and seeing that the brand was new to North Platte — we made the booking.
We weren’t sure what to expect when we pulled into the parking lot on the edge of town adjoining the highway. The hotel was visibly new, a big structure sitting on a bare lot surrounded on all sides by parking lots or a road. As we pulled in, it was clear that the pandemic was driving people to car travel; the parking lot was nearly full — quite the opposite of what we had experienced a few weeks earlier at the Hewing, and we weren’t sure what to think. Inside in the lobby, we found a fair bit of activity, but everything was well managed.
The room had a functional European vibe (complete with a few features to love); it reminded us of some of the places we stayed in Norway. The room was small, but space was optimized, and everything had its place; the room felt modern and clean (not the worst thing during a pandemic.) Overall, the feeling was friendly and fun, and the experience was more than we expected at a surprisingly low price point.
On our return trip from Denver, we stopped in Lincoln, Nebraska. When we drive between Minneapolis and Denver, we typically opt to stay in Omaha, which is 60 miles to the east and a bit bigger with more choices. But Lincoln is home to the University of Nebraska, and we both have a fondness for college towns. We booked The Kindler in advance, having found it in a search for hotels close to the university. It billed itself as a modern deco hotel, which was intriguing for a town that loves its cornhuskers (not a concept immediately associated with deco, although, we suppose, the deco movement did celebrate business and industry).
Right away, it was clear that the 49-room Kindler was trying to make its mark in downtown Lincoln, offering visitors something more than the typical college-town lodging. We could imagine what the lobby bar — Boitano’s — might be like on a typical, non-pandemic July evening. We had booked a “luxury king” room, and upon check-in were told that we’d get a lovely room with a balcony; the staff just needed to check to make sure the room was ready. Unfortunately, something went askew, and when we returned with our bags to pick up the key, we were told that room was no longer available. The room we did get was quite nice with the exception of the view. Rather than a sliding glass door with a balcony on the front of the hotel, our room had a window overlooking a parking garage.
With the exception of the giant flat screen TV and built-in mini fridge, the room did have a deco feel and was very well executed. What’s more, everything was in pristine condition. The hotel is new, so everything is fresh; the team at The Kindler will have to work hard to keep the standards up, particularly when the Nebraska football fans roll into town, but so far, they had done a good job.
Boitano’s Lounge
Did we mention that the bar is named after figure skater Brian Boitano? We made a point of stopping in — it was open, but empty so seemed not too coronavirus risky — and we wanted to give the bartender a little business. She, like all of the other staff we encountered, was super helpful if not too experienced. We asked her about the name of the bar. Did Brian Boitano have a connection to Lincoln? Perhaps to the university? Apparently no, but the hotel’s owner, who lives in Arizona, is friends with Brian. Or maybe it was Brian’s mom? Or something like that. The bar is quite simply an homage, and we think Boitano would approve.
By the time Thanksgiving 2020 rolled around, we had been living in pandemic world for eight months. Most of us (those paying attention anyway) had cancelled — or never made — holiday plans. For us, Thanksgiving is never a great time to connect with family, as we both work right up until the day. We do, however, routinely, organize a quick two-person getaway for the long weekend, leaving on Thanksgiving morning. This year, we longed for a change of scenery but knew we had to stay within driving distance. And we had wanted to check out a new hotel — the Crosby — in Stillwater, a town on the banks of the St. Croix river just 30 minutes’ drive from St. Paul. In fact, we had booked a room at the Crosby in Summer 2020, but a reservation system error on the part of the hotel upended those plans. As an apology, the hotel sent us a free night’s stay. We thought we would accept that gesture but also give the hotel some business by staying a second night. We’re so glad we did.
Quiet but never lonely
The 55-room Crosby felt just right for the times. Although the hotel was relatively empty when we were there — at least we saw very few people other than staff — it never felt lonely. Someone was always available in the cozy lobby to help if needed, and even though the hotel bar and restaurant were closed for seating, a fabulous bartender, who may have also been a member of management, set us up both nights with cocktails and quite exceptional food from the hotel’s restaurant, MatchStick, to eat in our room. During our stay, we developed what felt like a kind of solidarity with the staff; it seemed they were genuinely happy to have us there, and we were so grateful the hotel was open to host us. (In one of our conversations, we learned that the two-year-old hotel had its best summer ever in 2020 catering to people like us who needed a little break from the pandemic in an environment that wouldn’t sacrifice health and safety.)
In non-COVID days, we could imagine the Crosby being quite the happening spot. Between the bar and restaurant — with its focus on craft spirits: 700 of them — and the rooftop pool and fireplace, the public spaces were inviting even when empty.
Celebrating Stillwater’s heritage
Unlike many buildings in Stillwater, the Crosby is new and purpose-built; it opened in October 2018. But references to the town’s history as an important sawmill center play prominently in the hotel. Our room featured wood beams, a sliding barn door, and furniture made from reclaimed wood, including a big platform bed perfect for toe-stubbing. Our room was bright and cheery with a roomy balcony (unfortunately not of much use in November in Minnesota but appreciated nonetheless) and playful touches like a bathroom mural featuring a cigar-smoking matron. Because all of our meals were taken in our room, we also made good use of the seating area in front of the TV where we stumbled upon and somehow got enchanted by old episodes of “The Partridge Family.”
Perfect for adventures on foot
Unlike the downtowns of Minneapolis and St. Paul, Stillwater’s core is small enough and tourism-focused enough to still have some life during a pandemic. We happened to be out getting coffee when Santa rolled through on a Stillwater fire truck, and the lights on main street helped get us in the holiday spirit. We took two longs walks: one along the river where the lift bridge has become a foot bridge and one up through the neighborhoods above the bluffs to see all of the big Victorian homes. We had fun looking at real estate listings for an “inside” tour of some of the homes.
Together with The Lora, Stillwater is now establishing itself as a town with some terrific lodging options that go beyond the traditional bed-and-breakfast choices that dominated until recently. With a nice selection of restaurants (we hope they all outlast COVID-19), non-chain retail and beautiful surroundings, Stillwater is becoming a favorite destination for a quick break. We’ll certainly return to the Crosby.
This post isn’t about a particular hotel, but rather about things that some of our favorite hotels share and things that make our stay more comfortable, more functional or just more lovable. Here are some of the the features we love and the hotels that…feature them.
Custom Guidebooks
Guidemap from Town Hall Hotel
We typically arrive at a destination with a list of restaurants to sample, sites to see and shops or galleries to peek in on. But we’re always open to recommendations, and some of the best recommendations come from hoteliers who are locals (or hoteliers with staff who can discern like locals). In a few cases, we’ve ended up using the guidebooks we find in our room (or in the case of Oak House No. 1, the bespoke guide created for us at breakfast) almost exclusively to plan our days.
Our favorites
Babuino 181 (we brought this one home & shared with others bound for Rome)
We understand the reason for showers that are also tubs, particularly when quarters are tight, but quite honestly, we’d rather have one or the other, not both. And while the idea of a long soak in a hot bath is wonderful — an idea we act on when we have time — what we really appreciate is a good-quality shower. And that kind of shower almost never happens in something that doubles as a bath (shower curtains really are horrible, even if necessary). Some of our best hotel showers have featured double heads, steam functions, hand-held options and beautiful tiles. The very best, which occur only in specific climates, are in the open air.
Even when it’s really hot or really cold, we like to have the option of opening the windows and feeling the air of a new place. Windows let in the sights. Open windows let in the sights, the sounds and, yes, even the smells. For hotels in tropical places, windows that open are a bit of a given, but in other climates, we’re never sure what to expect. Upon arriving at a hotel, one of our first rituals is to check whether the windows opens. If they do, bonus points! We’ll admit that open windows aren’t always preferred by the housekeeping staff; we often return to find everything properly buttoned up again with the climate control cranking away, but we usually manage to settle into an arrangement that keeps everyone happy.
We can be in and out of a hotel room sometimes dozens of times in a day. And we’re often toting bags, coats, umbrellas, hats. We’ve come to appreciate rooms that provide a handy place for stashing all of the stuff that comes and goes with us and for helping keep tight quarters tidy. Closets are good. Wardrobes serve the purpose. But what we really love is pegs (or hooks) mounted on the wall near the door. You don’t have to fuss with doors or hangers, and you don’t have to worry about putting wet things in a closed space. Utilitarian or adorned, pegs are always a welcome site. Four is the ideal number; two for each of us. We think hotels are catching on to pegs — we see them more often than we used to — but we’re still happy to find a place, quite literally, to hang our hats.
Water — it’s such a simple thing. And at home, we take it for granted. But when traveling, a supply of bottled water in our hotel room is oh-so-wonderful. First of all, we’re almost always a bit dehydrated after a long journey. And a bottle of good, cool water sure is nice after a day out exploring. Yes, we certainly try to drink tap water wherever possible, but in many places that’s not advisable. And we’re not talking about the Fiji Water the hotel wants $9.50 for. Yes, hotels need to make money when they can, but basic hydration needs are something that all hotels should provide gratis. And it doesn’t need to be anything fancy. We’re perfectly content with whatever the local brand might be. In fact that’s even better.
Our favorites
European hotels are quite good at water — still and sparkling.
San Juan, Puerto Rico ~ Condado Vanderbilt Hotel ~ June 2023
The Condado Vanderbilt was our third stop in the San Juan area, an unplanned overnight stay after a cancelled flight. A colleague loves the Vanderbilt, and it was on the list for our San Juan city stay, but we ultimately chose a different neighborhood and, therefore, a different hotel (see our El Convento post here). The Vanderbilt, situated in the oceanside district of Condado, opened in 1919 by the Vandberbilt family. The hotel now features the original Spanish revivalist building and two modern towers flanking either side. The neighborhood has a Miami Beach vibe, and the Vanderbilt adds a Great Gatsby flair, making the hotel the site where much of the Condado action happens.
Our last-minute booking meant we didn’t have many choices when it came to rooms. Upon arrival from the airport at nearly 8 pm, we were given a room that is part of a larger suite in the historic building. With the exception of the bed, which was a pull-down Murphy bed and, honestly, not all that comfortable, the room was functional and stylish with a deco feel. (The shower with its forceful, massaging stream was particularly good after a long day at the airport). Our windows opened to the ocean, and we had fun listening to the waves until the heat of the night forced us to revert to air conditioning. Sitting in our room, it was easy to imagine 1920s-era parties filling the grand hotel. Our stay was short, so we didn’t get much time to experience the Vanderbilt, but we’re grateful to have gotten a taste.
Costa Mesa, California, USA ~ Avenue of the Arts ~ May 2022
Interesting hotels are not abundant in inland Orange County, and Avenue of the Arts was the closest we could find to something beyond the standard Hilton/Sheraton/Marriott. The hotel, a Tribute Portfolio property, is situated on a small but picturesque man-made lake (a treat in California suburbia), and we enjoyed leaving the sliding glass door ajar to soak in the warm California breeze. The rooms — designed to look a little vintage Hollywood — were playful and functional if not fancy. It was clear the hotel had been updated in terms of furnishings, flooring and decor, but we could see the property’s age in its infrastructure and in areas like the bathrooms, which were still a bit dated (and which had one the most interesting presentations of a shower curtain we have seen). The hotel adjoins the Segerstrom Center for the Arts, an impressive-looking facility, and is easily accessible from John Wayne Airport. If your travels find you in Orange County and you aren’t able to stay near the beach, Avenue of the Arts is likely one of your best choices.
Eagan, Minnesota, USA ~ Omni Viking Lakes Hotel ~ March 2022
(solo stay) A quick overnight with two friends in early March 2022 took one of us to this new hotel in the St. Paul/Minneapolis suburb of Eagan. It was built right next to the also-new Minnesota Vikings (football) practice facility and certainly caters to visitors of that venue. But there was no Vikings action when we were there, and the hotel still had a fair amount of energy. We took advantage of both the restaurant, which is run by a well-known Twin Cities restaurateur, and the second-floor lounge. We thought we might take a walk to explore the area, but the frigid temperatures — along with the lack of any roads near the hotel that looked even remotely pedestrian friendly — kept us inside. No worries, though; the hotel was perfect for our purposes: spending time together to catch up.
Duluth, Minnesota, USA ~ Pier B Resort ~ February 2022
We desperately needed a little escape from the cold and darkness of a St. Paul February, but had only one night to spend so, in a winter-induced haze, decided to go north to Duluth where it was only colder and darker. Pier B, one of Duluth’s newest hotels, sits right at the edge of Lake Superior but is off on its own from the other hotels in Canal Park. What that means for half of the rooms on the property is a wonderful view of Duluth’s aerial lift bridge. The view is the highlight of the hotel; the rooms themselves are quite basic and already appeared well-worn. We got the sense that the hotel hosts lots of celebrations — in fact, we were there on a night when most other guests were attendees of a wedding — but didn’t have a grand plan for keeping up with the ever-present demands of room maintenance. Of course, our stay was during a(nother) spike in COVID-19, and both staffing and supplies were hard to come by (as evidenced by our oddly ironed duvet cover and eclectic collection of bath products). Pier B didn’t have any fatal flaws; we just recommend that guests go with realistic expectations.
Lafayette, California, USA ~ Lafayette Park Hotel & Spa ~ January 2022
San Francisco and Napa/Sonoma wine country get most of the attention when it comes to visiting Northern California, but the East Bay is beautiful, particularly in winter when everything is green. And the town of Lafayette is a good launching off spot for many of the area’s attractions. We visited the Lafayette Park Hotel and Spa as part of a work trip but liked the property enough stayed on for a few extra nights. The hotel bills itself as a “French country escape in the East Bay,” and it did feel a bit like that. Our room overlooked a lovely courtyard, and while the room itself, wasn’t luxurious, it was quite comfortable and functional. We particularly liked the big wicker basket in the bathroom for discarding used towels. The hotel’s bar and restaurant is a local gathering spot and — with its gas fire pit — a nice place to sit outside, even in the winter.
Dallas, Texas, USA ~ W Dallas – Victory ~ December 2019
(solo stay) A well-styled — if a little glitzy — hotel in a city that loves to dress up. The purpose-built building that is half hotel and half residence allows for spacious guest rooms and eye-catching design elements such as a two-sided bathroom vanity. And the lobby-level common spaces and rooftop infinity pool are intriguing. Still — based on a two-night stay — the W seems to attract a fair number of guests ready for a party, and party-goers can be hard on a hotel. The luxurious touches didn’t quite hide some noticeable wear and tear.
Eugene, Oregon, USA ~ Graduate Eugene ~ November 2019
(solo stay) If you grew up in the 1970s and have fond memories of hanging out in your friend’s groovy basement, the Graduate Eugene is just right for you. It’s an homage — through and through — to that era and to Track Town USA: Eugene. This two-night stay was tied to an event at the University of Oregon and was the first visit back in almost 20 years. For a town the size of Eugene, it has remarkably few hotel options (although a handful are under construction in anticipation of the World Athletics Championships in 2021). The Graduate seemed like the best option.
Although the style wouldn’t be a first choice for us, the Graduate did pull if off well. The nostalgia was well-executed. And a trip to the Northwest is always welcome.
Bergen, Stavanger, Trondheim and Oslo, Norway ~ 2 Scandics and 2 Radissons ~ September 2019
A 10-day visit to Norway (mostly business with a little pleasure) involved seven hotels, four of which were connected to work and to two of the country’s dominant hotel chains: Scandic and Radisson. While the Scandic Ornen in Bergen and Scandic St. Olav’s Plass in Oslo were perfectly fine, we have to give a slight nod to Radisson for this trip — the Radisson Blu Atlantic in Stavanger and the Radison Blu Royal Garden in Trondheim. Rooms in all four hotels were small but functional, and we loved the (mostly) minimalist Scandinavian style. One of us particularly relished the two single-size duvets that covered the queen-size beds in the Scandic rooms. No worries about your bedmate stealing the covers.
Scandic St. Olav’s PlassScandic OrnenRadisson Blu AtlanticRadisson Blu Royal Garden
If the Scandics had the best bed coverings, the Radissons were better on the amenities (from hair conditioner to mini bar offerings). Word to the wise: If you’re staying at a Scandic, pack your own toiletries. What Scandics lack in lotions and potions, however, they make up for in pretty wonderful breakfasts. Freshly baked brown bread? Yes. Smoked salmon? Yes. A cornucopia of Norwegian cheeses? Yes. Crepes? Yes. And just about everything else you might want. Breakfast comes standard with Norwegian hotels, and the Radisson breakfasts may have been just as good, but we’ll admit we didn’t wake up early enough to check them out.
Toronto, Canada ~ Sheraton Centre Hotel ~ August 2019
When checking in for a conference stay, the very helpful front-desk worker told us that Toronto’s Sheraton Centre is the second-biggest Sheraton in the world. Yes, it’s big — 1,372 rooms. And the hotel was bustling when we were there with conference goers and others.
We were intrigued by elements in the modernist (verging on brutalist) design: a tropical looking garden complete with a waterfall on the mezzanine level, outdoor walking paths that connect many of the hotel’s spaces with the City Hall plaza across the street, and the concrete — lots of it. We could envision the idea behind the 1972 design even if some of the spaces looked long forgotten.
The guest room was what you find in a typical Sheraton. Fine, but nothing special. We did pay for an upgrade to get a room on the 32nd floor that had fun views of City Hall and its surroundings.
Toronto is a great city, and it surely has far more interesting places to stay, but the Sheraton served the purpose for this trip.
MSP Airport, Minnesota, USA ~ Intercontinental Hotel ~ March 2019
An early morning flight for a holiday in St. Lucia prompted us to book a room the night before departure at the just-opened Intercontinental. We thought being right at the airport would make the 5 am flight a little easier to manage.
Getting to and from the airport: harder than it should be.
That ended up not being the case, but it was fun to check out the hotel nonetheless. Due to yet-to-be-completed access points and a shortage of TSA officers, the only way to get from the airport, where our city bus dropped us off, to the hotel was to wait for the hotel shuttle, which runs just three times an hour. The same was true in the morning. And although we reserved two seats on the shuttle when we checked in, it was over capacity, and both of us had to share the front bucket seat. We were pretty sure this was illegal, but we were grateful the driver was willing to look the other way; otherwise, we would have risked missing our flight, even though we were literally right on the airport property.
March 2022 Update: A second stay. Still no TSA access to the airport, but we did get a tip from a hotel staffer on walking from the hotel to the newly built parking garage where there’s tram access to the airport. A chilly walk at 7 am in March but better than the shuttle!
Putting aside the access issues, the room had some fun features, not least of which was the terrific view of one of the airport’s runways. We spent the first 20 minutes after checking in just watching the planes take off and land, trying to determine the organizational logic. We also appreciated the modern design (of course, the room was brand new, so everything looked fresh), the functional bathroom (although only one robe was supplied) and the Nespresso machine (good coffee helps with a 3 am wake-up). Not wanting to leave the property once we finally made it there, we had dinner at the hotel, and the French brassiere-style fare was solidly done. Would we return to the Intercontinental? Probably not until the access issues are resolved, but in the future, it could serve as a convenient kick-off to travels elsewhere.
Baltimore, Maryland, USA ~ Hyatt Regency Inner Harbor ~ February 201
(solo stay) A business trip with a stay in a big chain hotel wouldn’t normally warrant a HOTELLINGentry. But this Hyatt had a few things worth noting. First, we are intrigued by brutalist architecture, both the examples that come out of former Soviet states and the more gentle versions we tend to see in other places. The Baltimore Hyatt has some interesting brutalist elements, particularly in the 3rd floor bar and restaurant. A textured concrete wall that soars several floors, huge concrete pillars and a Japanese rock garden — done at a macro scale — make for an atmosphere that beats most hotel dining rooms. Second, the queen rooms at the end of each wing and facing the harbor feature a surprising number of wrap-around windows with views toward the city and the water. The room itself was nothing special, but the fishbowl view was fabulous. Last, the Hyatt staff deserve recognition. It’s possible that everyone in Baltimore is like the staff at the Hyatt — Baltimore is “charm city” after all — but this is doubtful. The Hyatt has managed to find staff who are personable, caring, attentive and downright friendly — each and every one of them.
Annandale, Minnesota, USA ~ America’s Best Hotel ~ August 2018
A party for some friends who are getting married took us to this small town about 90 minutes from home. We were faced with the decision of making a late-night drive home, or staying in the town’s one hotel: America’s Best. We didn’t imagine the hotel would live up to the superlative in its name, but we thought it might surprise us by being better than expected. Let’s just say we shouldn’t have gotten our hopes up.
We can’t remember another time when we were greeted by a list of “House Rules” in the guest services book — not exactly a welcoming touch. Neither was the food left in the refrigerator from a previous guest or the bathroom that looked like it got the “light” clean. Next time we’re out this way, we’ll surely skip the hotel and find our way home. On a positive note, however, Annandale and its surroundings had some fun spots for eating and drinking — Spilled Grain Brewhouse, Milk and Honey Ciders and Bad Habit Brewing Company — and we had a fun time celebrating with our soon-to-be-married friends.
Washington, DC, USA ~ Renaissance Hotel ~ August 2018
(solo stay)This was your typical convention hotel — the kind of place that in the recent past likely boasted a multi-million dollar renovation, which was really just a cosmetic refresh with the installation of solid-surface countertops, new carpet and some updated furniture. Only one of us traveled, but we both got a laugh from the labels around the room pointing out “power” and “refrigerator” …just in case you weren’t sure. Clearly, not a place we would choose if we were traveling for pleasure, but it got the job done.
Minneapolis, USA ~ The Ivy ~ April 2017
(solo stay) This one-night stay was an in-city getaway for one of us with a few friends. The hotel choice revolved around something that would work well with a matinee performance at the Guthrie and a late-night dinner at 112 Eatery. The Ivy is both a hotel and a condo and has gone through a few financial challenges, but it seems to have come out the other side. The room was fine, but the night away with friends was far more memorable than the accommodation.
San Jose, California, USA ~ The Valencia ~ April 2018
(solo stay)This was a quick business trip for one of us. The Valencia, on San Jose’s shopping and dining street, Santana Row, is in a great location if you’d like to be able to walk a bit (the Silicon Valley is not a walker’s paradise). The room had a Juliet balcony, which would have been nice for letting in the lovely April California air, but the balcony looked directly into the living room of the apartment next door, so it seemed a little uncouth to stand out there. The nicest part of the hotel was the second floor courtyard that featured a bubbling fountain. Unfortunately, the trip’s schedule didn’t allow much time for a courtyard visit.
Chicago, Illinois, USA ~ Palmer House Hilton ~ February 20118
(solo stay) We’ve stayed at the Palmer House on several occasions; this time was a business stay for one of us. We’re not sure if our tastes — or standards — have just changed over the years or if the Palmer House has slipped several notches, but our recommendation is to swing by for a drink in the lobby bar and, perhaps, for a glance of the grand ballroom. But stay somewhere else. On this visit, it took three tries to get into a room that would work for three nights. And just for the record, asking for another room is not something we do regularly; this was a first.
Minneapolis, USA ~ The Hewing ~ December 2018
A quick overnight to check out one of Minneapolis’s newest hotels in a restored farm implement warehouse. The hotel certainly seemed the place to be for the North Loop hipster crowd. Our room, which played heavily on the Minnesota theme that is all the rage right now, was nice, but our expectations may have been a little high. We’d call it solid but not exceptional.
Rome, Italy ~ Babuino 181 ~ September 2017
This small hotel, part of a group of three properties owned by a Roman gentleman, really grew on us during our 8-night stay. Our room in a historic palazzo looked out onto Via del Babuino, one of Rome’s great 16th-century streets (although our favorite street became Via Margutta, where the other hotels in the property reside — next time we’ll try one of those). Situated between Plaza del Popolo and the Spanish Steps, Babuino 181’s location is excellent.
Our room had some lovely features: an Italian marble bath and shower, Frette sheets (some of the best linens in the world), a Nespresso machine, and authentic shutters to keep out the sun and noise (although we liked both). The rooftop bar was also a beautiful place to enjoy an evening cocktail before heading off to one of Rome’s great eating establishments. The picture at the top of this post is the view from the roof.
One of the best parts of our stay was a little Roman notebook, left for all guests, that features recommendations of all kinds from the hotel’s proprietor: food and drink, shops and sites. After visiting a few of these, we realized that this notebook isn’t just a way of marketing other businesses. All of the recommendations were terrific, and we came to rely on the notebook for making decisions about what to see and where to eat.
Phnom Penh, Cambodia ~ The Plantation Urban Resort and Spa ~ March 2017
The Plantation is an oasis in the middle of a crazy city. When picking a hotel in Phnom Penh, we went back and forth between the Plantation and the more famous (and historic) Raffles Hotel. We ended up choosing the Plantation to stay and the Raffles to imbibe (the gin and tonics are top-notch). It was a good choice. We loved the porous boundaries between inside and outside at The Plantation, particularly because we come from a climate where this would never be possible.
We arrived into Phnom Penh late at night after a 24-hour trip and were picked up at the airport and driven through the relatively quiet streets to The Plantation where friendly staff members awaited us and got us settled. This was the last time we would see the city in this state. During our stay in Phnom Penh, we loved mixing it up in the chaos of the bustling city, but we made sure to leave a few hours each day for some pool time in one of the two pools on the property. Our room had a lovely little balcony, a fun daybed and air conditioning, which was sometimes necessary. The room wasn’t anything fancy, but it didn’t need to be. The other features are what makes The Plantation special.
This page features some of the places we stayed prior to starting hotelling.org. The descriptions are briefer and the photos fewer, but we offer a few of our memories.
Chicago, USA ~ The Gray ~ January 2017
The Gray had just opened when we arrived in Chicago for a birthday weekend. Brand new hotels are always nice, and this is a Kimpton property, so we were pretty sure the hotel would be stylistically fun. It didn’t disappoint. The hotel is in the Financial District, so the neighborhood is quiet on the weekend, but that was fine. We actually enjoyed the chance to stroll slowly through the the loop on a wintery Saturday and take in the architecture (without getting in anyone’s way).
Vancouver, Canada ~ The Fairmont ~ November 2016
The Fairmont
A little escape to Vancouver for American Thanksgiving. When we arrived, our room wasn’t ready, so we took an upgrade to a room with a fabulous view of Vancouver Harbor and access to the club lounge, which was well worth it. A quality stay all around made memorable by our fascination with yule log TV.
London, England ~ Zetter Town House, Marylebone ~ September 2016
The Zetter, Marylebone
A small place with bold design — think modern medieval — and lovely cocktails to be had in the main floor lounge/living room. Perhaps, though, a little too small. We had a plumbing issue, and word from the staff was that no one could troubleshoot until the next day. Thankfully before packing up and moving to a new room, the problem resolved itself. On our second night, we were treated to cocktails by two friends who were at the Zetter just for drinks. They had sat across from us on the Heathrow Express and recognized us when we walked in to the hotel. In all of London, how funny we would end up in the same place as our trainmates.
St. Andrew’s Scotland ~ Hotel Du Vin ~ September 2016
We didn’t take any photos of this hotel, but we both remember it being quite nice. We particularly liked that each room was named after a Scotch, and we made a point of trying some of our room’s namesake. Most people go to St. Andrew’s for the golf; we were fascinated by the ruins of St. Andrew’s Cathedral.
Also on our Scotland visit – both in Edinburgh:
The view from Apex Waterloo
Fraser Suites — Evidence is there that it was once quite nice; when we stayed, it seemed a little tired, although it’s right on the steepest banks of the Royal Mile, which makes it fun structurally. Guests enter on Floor 5.
Apex Waterloo — We moved here after starting at another Apex property, which was a total disappointment; this one was better but not up to our other Apex experience in London. We did, however, love our view.
New York City, USA ~ The Crosby Street Hotel ~ June 2016
The Crosby Street Hotel
This hotel is one of our top 3; we loved everything about it. The design was beautiful — even for us minimalists. The service was what we prefer — there when we need it but not intrusive. The location — Soho — was perfect for our weekend’s explorations, and we liked that such a terrifically executed place could be found in a neighborhood that still has just a little bit of grit.
Berlin, Germany ~ Das Stue ~ January 2016
The view from Das Stue
Another of our top 3 hotels, Das Stue is located in the former Danish embassy near the Berlin Tiergarten. We didn’t take pictures of the room (our stay preceded hotelling.org), but it represents some of the best in German form and function. Some of our favorite spaces in the hotel are the shared ones — lounges on each floor filled with books, a bar that serves fabulous cocktails, and a lobby with a stunning staircase. We loved our view out to the wintery park — some rooms look out on the Berlin Zoo — and will always remember toasting David Bowie from our room when we learned he had died.
London, England ~ Town Hall Hotel ~ January 2015
A kitchen in a closet at the Town Hall
The Town Hall was our first stay in East London (Bethnal Green), and we loved the hotel and neighborhood. Just as the name implies, the hotel is housed in a former town hall, and the building’s Edwardian architecture is integrated fabulously. Our room had a full-size kitchen hidden behind a folding door. We never cooked — there is far too much good eating in London’s restaurants — but the kitchen was fun to look at.
Dubuque, Iowa, USA ~ Hotel Julien ~ August 2014
We wanted a weekend getaway within a three-hour drive of Minneapolis, and Dubuque was one of the few places we hadn’t yet been. The class act in town, the Julien has been a hotel since 1839. The room was fine — nothing too memorable — but we had fun exploring Dubuque’s sites, including the incline train and the Mississippi River Aquarium.
Willamette Valley, Oregon, USA ~ Black Walnut Inn ~ July 2014
A Willamette Valley view from the Black Walnut Inn
We were in Portland for business and took a few days to wander through the Willamette Valley and the Oregon coast. We remember the inn being nice, but the highlight was the surrounding landscape…and, of course, the wine.
Also on our Oregon visit:
The Overleaf Lodge and Spa, Yachats: The lodge was a bit of a blast from the past — not fancy but certainly good enough. Again, however, the views blew us away. The picture window in our room looked right out to the rocky coast. We loved listening to the waves beat against the rocks.
Hotel Rose, Portland: A motor inn that has been converted to a boutiquey hotel, the Rose had a fun vibe, but our room was small and a basic. We imagined Portland had more on offer so moved for the second part of our stay
The Heathman, Portland: One of Portland’s landmark historic hotels, the Heathman got most things right. The room was intimate — as are rooms in most historic hotels — but everything was well done, and the service was top-notch. The hotel’s library and art collection added to the stay. Definitely a step up from the Rose.
Valladolid, Yucatan, Mexico ~ Hotel el Meson del Marques ~ January 2014
Hotel el Meson del Marques
We chose Valladolid after reading an article in The New York Times that made the small city in the middle of the Yucatan sound too intriguing to pass up. Surprisingly, we were able to get a room in the Meson del Marques, even though it was the featured hotel in the article; we figured rooms in January would be snapped up in a second after the article came out. We loved the hotel, which was right on the town square. It wasn’t fancy, but it was just right for a real Spanish town with an authentically sophisticated vibe — so much better than the big resorts on the Yucatan coast. From hearing the early-morning jungle sounds coming in our open windows to partaking in wonderful Yucatan cuisine, the stay was just what we needed for a brief reprieve from Minnesota in the dead of winter.
Las Vegas, USA ~ The Mandarin Oriental ~ August 2013
Poolside at the Las Vegas Mandarin Oriental
Yes, you are reading this correctly. We went to Las Vegas in August. We wanted a weekend getaway and an excuse to lay low for a few days, reading and generally taking it easy. When we saw that the Las Vegas Mandarin Oriental doesn’t have a casino, we figured it was the place for us. The M.O. is tucked away just off the strip; you have to look for it to find it, which was just perfect. Our room was quite nice — we’re guessing the M.O. doesn’t get as many of the “What happens in Vegas stays in Vegas” crowds — and the hotel bar midway up the tower offered fun views of the city’s craziness. The highlight for us, though, was the pool. It was surely hot, but the attentive staff made sure our umbrellas were adjusted with each shift of the sun.
Long ago, but not quite forgotten
Beijing, China ~ June 2011
The Emperor
The Emperor: Our first escape from the dump (truly) we were staying in for work. The Emperor may have been nothing all that special, but at the time, it seemed like heaven.
Red Capital Residence: Real courtyard home with a bomb-shelter bar underneath the courtyard
Red Capital Ranch (now the Shambhala): Near an unreconstructed portion of the Great Wall. Guest cottages feature Princess-and-the Pea beds and stone showers.
Red Capital Residence
Red Capital Ranch
Wandering through France ~ July 2009
We followed the Tour de France for two weeks in 2009 and stayed in several memorable spots, made even better by being in the country for cycling’s greatest race.
Chateau Hotel de Rochegude
Chateau Hotel de Rochegude ~ Provence: Anytime you have a chance to stay in a real chateau, we highly recommend it.
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