Minneapolis, MN, USA ~ Four Seasons

August 2022

We’ve had some great hotel experiences in our hometown(s) of Minneapolis/St. Paul but none that we would call “five-star.” Therefore, when ground broke on the Minneapolis Four Seasons a few years ago, we immediately added it to a list of places we’d like to stay. The property opened in early summer 2022, but based on a few opening reviews, we thought it would be best to give it a handful of weeks for the team to work out some bugs. We’re glad we did. While we won’t say the hotel rises to our list of all-time favorites, it was enough to make us see our home city through fresh eyes.

Solid execution from start to finish

Because we wanted the full tourist experience, we decided to take the train from our home in downtown St. Paul to the Four Seasons in downtown Minneapolis. As we approached the front doors of the hotel with roller bags in tow, a valet greeted us and asked – in a playful and friendly way – where we were coming from and if we had walked from there. We told him we were arriving from across the river and then had a nice but quick chat about being from the same city. We would learn later that this is a Four Seasons thing – making personal connections with guests – but we have to say that it felt totally authentic.

During our two-night stay, this first experience with the valet was representative of our encounters at the hotel. From the reception staff and housekeepers to the servers and bartenders at the hotel’s two restaurants, we felt like we were dealing with pros. And we’ll admit, it had been some time since we had experienced that. The pandemic and its aftermath had understandably thrown the hospitality industry for a loop, and for the last few years we have calibrated our expectations. But with the exception of a few small things – and things we didn’t really need such as the clothes pressing serving – the Four Seasons seemed be operating on all cylinders, and we embraced it.

A room with a view

The hotel occupies 8 floors in the middle of the tower with offices below and residences above. Our room on the 24th floor delivered views of the Mississippi River and the metropolis from downtown toward the northwest suburbs. We had fun looking out the floor-to-ceiling windows and identifying landmarks we had spent time in on the ground; in fact, from the hotel, many of Minneapolis’s iconic buildings are visible. The room was thoughtfully conceived and well-executed with design-grade furnishings throughout. Everything just worked: The drapes opened upon entering. The integrated technology was advanced but intuitive. The storage allowed us to unpack our admittedly small bags and store them away (although we had a small quibble that the luggage rack couldn’t be stored in the closet without getting in the way of hanging clothes). The coffee/tea bar was well-stocked. And the bathroom was luxurious with an oversized shower and separate toilet closet. The room did, however, still feel like a room in a corporate property, which isn’t necessarily a detractor but worth noting.

The hotel’s amenities, only a few of which we took advantage – those mostly connected with food and drink – were also an appeal. (We will note that our reservation at Mara, the hotel’s restaurant, was only possible because we were staying.) And, of course, the entire property was brand new – not a scratch or dent, which added to the allure. All in all, we felt like we were having a luxurious getaway, even if we didn’t feel anything distinctively “Minneapolis” beyond the view.

Re-inspired by Minneapolis

Perhaps the best part of the Four Seasons stay was that it helped restore our belief in our city as an urban core with things happening. We had the good fortune of being at the Four Seasons on an amazing late-summer weekend, and the city felt alive. Anyone who has been paying attention knows that Minneapolis has had its challenges in the last few years, but all of the people we encountered – from diverse age groups, socioeconomic statuses, ethnicities, cultural and religious backgrounds – helped make the city feel energetic, vibrant and inviting. This may have had nothing to do with the Four Seasons, but we’ll always give the hotel credit for a weekend that re-inspired us.

Stay details:

What we did, where we ate:

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Taos, NM, USA ~ El Monte Sagrado

July 2022

A one-night stay at El Monte Sagrado is certainly not enough, but that’s all we had. We arrived in Taos — a party of four that included the two of us and two parents — after a terrific four-night stay in Santa Fe at a VRBO. We had two days in Taos and booked two rooms in a small, boutique hotel (Palacio de Marquesa) that, upon our arrival, we discovered was for sale and, quite frankly, felt neglected by its owners, Heritage Hotels and Resorts, Inc. The Marquesa looks to be a special place, and the staff went above and beyond to welcome us for the night we stayed. We do hope the property lands in good hands — someone who will give it the attention it deserves and restore it to its full potential. But…for our short stay, we wanted something with a little more energy and a more robust suite of hotel services. So it happens, El Monte Sagrado is part of the same ownership group, so it was an easy transfer for our second night.

From an 8-room inn to a sizable resort

The first thing we noticed about El Monte Sagrado — and the highlight — was its grounds; they were beautiful — manicured but still respectful of the Taos landscape. Each of our rooms had a patio overlooking a lush pond full of big koi, and we had fun wandering the property to see the gardens surrounding the rooms, suites and casitas. It would have been nice to have a day or two just to really appreciate the property and perhaps visit the pool and spa, but we were on the go most of the time. We did get a few hours in the early evening to enjoy a cocktail and read a book out on the patio.

A spacious, well-appointed suite, but it’s the balcony we’ll remember

Our rooms, two Native American suites, had a living room, separate bedroom and a bath with an oversized (room for plenty) shower. The rooms felt a little dark in the middle of summer, but they honored the architecture of the area where getting out of the sun is important. And we couldn’t help but imagine how cozy they would feel during a Taos winter with the kiva fireplace burning. Each room featured unique art pieces that took away any corporate edge you might otherwise feel.

El Monte Sagrado describes the garden and pond that our rooms overlooked as the “sacred circle” and the “green beating heart” of the property. We felt fortunate to have such a beautiful view and spent almost all of our time while at our room out on the patio.

Lingering pandemic effects

As with everywhere else we’ve traveled since the arrival of COVID-19, it was clear that El Monte Sagrado was dealing with the effects — and after-effects — of the pandemic. Hotels are coming back to life, but it’s hard to plan for guests and for staffing. On the morning we checked in, one very helpful staff person was covering reception and, seemingly, all guest services. During happy hour, one bartender was serving everyone; in the restaurant, we saw the attentive staff juggling more people than they could reasonably handle. And it looked like a few maintenance projects on the grounds may have been deferred simply because staff was short. Still, we couldn’t end this post without thanking three staffers at the valet stand (they referred to themselves as “the boys at El Monte”) for giving us a fabulous green chile cheeseburger recommendation.

Stay details:

  • El Monte Sagrado
  • Our stay: 1 night, July 15, 2022
  • Room: Native American Suite, #16 Shenandoah

Where we ate, what we did:

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Santa Barbara, CA, USA ~ Palihouse Santa Barbara

March 2022

It was March 2022. The pandemic lingered on, although conditions had certainly improved since early in the year. Still, international travel was spotty and, for many destinations, hassle-filled. Therefore, for a week away in spring, we decided, once again, to stay in the U.S. We had several domestic destinations on our list to visit, but many of those were still emerging out of winter, and we needed some sunshine and warmth, so we settled on California. Palm Springs and Santa Barbara were our two choices, but the ocean was calling.

The American Riviera

The “American Riviera” town of Santa Barbara it would be.

With a destination chosen, we set about researching a place to stay and decided that Santa Barbara’s geography would dictate the decision: Did we want to be beachside? In the heart of town? Or up in the foothills of the Santa Ynez mountains that surround Santa Barbara? Although the ocean drew us to Santa Barbara, most of the best oceanfront hotels in Santa Barbara are resorts that seemed a little isolated for our taste. The same was true for our top choice up in the hills; we would have a car, but our goal when traveling is typically to stay out of the car and explore on foot or on two wheels. With those factors in mind, we went with our city pick: Palihouse, a 24-room hotel situated in Santa Barbara’s historic Presidio neighborhood.  


Quintessentially Santa Barbara

Santa Barbara is recognized for its Spanish colonial revival architecture; its sophisticated but laid-back attitude; its proximity to the ocean, to the wine country of the central coast, and to Los Angeles; and, of course, it’s weather: warm, sunny days and cool mornings and evenings. To us, Palihouse embodied many of these features and, as a consequence, felt very place-based.

The hotel itself is comprised of several individual structures that surround two lovely courtyards. Against an almost-always blue sky, the white stucco walls, red-tiled roofs and iron railings of Palihouse provided a postcard-like view from almost any spot in the hotel. Our room – like all in the hotel – had both a fireplace and a balcony, and we’ll admit, on a few occasions, to having the double-doors to the balcony wide open while simultaneously enjoying the warmth and glow of the fireplace.

The courtyard off the reception and bar area, which we overlooked from our room, had a central fountain with umbrella-covered tables along with couches and chairs suited for lounging. Throughout the day, guests could be found having a coffee or a cocktail, chatting with friends or reading. The second courtyard was home to a lovely small pool, which was reportedly kept at 86 degrees – warm enough for just about any day. The attentive staff was always busy assisting guests, but no one ever seemed hassled or in a hurry, and our requests always received quick responses.

During our stay, one of our favorite rituals was walking into and out of the hotel property through the back entrance where we would almost always see a few small lizards sunning themselves on the sidewalk (one of which we could recognize because of its half-tail) before walking in between two historic buildings to emerge into the grounds of the Presidio. This route made the hotel feel like part of the historic monument itself.


Room No. 3

The hotel began as the Santa Barbara School of the Arts in the 1920s and, immediately before becoming the Palihouse, was the Spanish Garden Inn. In fact, we found the hotel through a London Telegraph article that pointed us to the Spanish Garden. In March 2021, the Palisociety group opened the hotel after completing all new interiors throughout the property, which Palihouse describes as an aesthetic that blends “vintage preppy” with “American Riviera.” That design – however one would describe it – was clearly articulated and cohesive throughout the hotel, and elements from individual rooms carried through to the common areas, which happened to be some of our favorite spaces.

Our room was spacious and, with the exception of the bathroom and entry, bright. One of our favorite features was the two soft chairs that sat just inside the balcony. With the doors wide open, we could enjoy the view from the balcony while still having the privacy of sitting in our room. In addition to the already-noted fireplace, the room also featured a big, comfortable bed with Frette linens and a Nespresso machine (although we wouldn’t have put the coffee in the bathroom).

Perhaps because the hotel was not purpose-built, a few elements in our room did feel a little awkward, and one or two choices didn’t fit with the rest of the generally well-executed rooms. First, the room wasn’t effectively set up for stays of more than a few days. The closet was spacious – and the staff cheerfully delivered a bag full of additional hangers – but the quite-small chest of drawers inside the closet wasn’t enough to allow us to properly unpack. (For the record, we were there for a week but only brought a carry-on suitcase each, so we didn’t need vast amounts of storage.) Additionally the bathroom, which we’ll admit was our least favorite part of the room, didn’t have any towel racks and only a few hooks. From a sustainability perspective, we aren’t guests who need or want fresh towels every day, but we didn’t have anywhere to hang wet towels or washcloths, so we took to draping them over the tub. The bathroom itself was dark, and the shower and toilet, which were in a separate “closet” from the tub and sink, felt cavelike; a glass window between the shower and the tub only partially mitigated the challenge. Perhaps if the fixtures of the bathroom had been of higher quality, the feeling would have been different, but the soaking tub was plastic, and the faucet was loose. The vanity for the sink didn’t have any storage for toiletries, and it was clear that an older piece had been spruced up by covering it with a pleated fabric drape rather than bringing in a new vanity, sink and counter-top.

Other smaller quibbles related to visible extension cords, burned out light bulbs, and oddly placed art, which may have been from Santa Barbara’s vibrant arts community, but seemed oddly commercial and not in keeping with the rest of the hotel’s interior design. Finally, in our room, the placement of the full-sized Smeg refrigerator right at the front door made for an oddly tight entrance. (We did happen to walk by a few other rooms when the front door was open, and the refrigerator placement seemed unique to our room.)


Cocktails anyone?

The Palisociety brand is unstuffy and fun, and from what we can see the hotel facilitates fun by encouraging cocktail/wine/beer consumption. Upon arriving in our room, we were invited to enjoy a half-bottle of prosecco “while getting settled in.” The room’s refrigerator was stocked with all of the cold necessities for crafting any cocktail, and what wasn’t in the refrigerator was in a bedside tray. Of course, while on holiday, who really wants to make their own drink? This is especially true when the hotel offers a complimentary cocktail hour many nights (we never quite figured out the logic of what nights featured a cocktail hour and what nights didn’t) where anything on the menu – or off the menu – was on offer. And during hours when the bar was closed, we also had access to an honor bar off the main courtyard. Let’s just say, we definitely didn’t go thirsty during our stay.


El Compendio

All in all, Palihouse Santa Barbara was a good choice for our week-long stay in Santa Barbara. We loved the quiet neighborhood that was close to so much we wanted to see. The staff were genuinely kind and helpful. The size of the hotel lent itself to an intimate and cozy vibe without feeling too inn-like where everyone knew everyone else’s comings and goings. And we loved the inside/outside spaces.

Palihouse embodied many of Santa Barbara’s distinctive features and, as a consequence, felt very place-based.

Would we add Palihouse to the list of our top hotel stays? Probably not this time around. We tend not to put “value” high on our list when assessing a hotel, but we will say that Palihouse was as expensive or more so than some of our favorites, and we don’t think it quite stacks up, even when considering that Santa Barbara is a costly destination and we were traveling during a peak week. This feeling was reinforced when, after returning home, we got a second credit card charge from the hotel. After calling to inquire, we learned that although we had paid for our room upon check-in, this additional charge, which was not negligible, was for the daily resort fee. We would certainly call Palihouse a lovely small hotel but not a resort.


Stay details:

  • Palihouse Santa Barbara in the downtown Presidio historic district
  • Our stay: 7 nights, March 19 – 26, 2022
  • Room: deluxe king, #3

Where we ate, what we did:

Eating and drinking:

Breakfast at:

Breakfast at Rudy’s

Coffee at:

Beer and snacks at:

Dinner at:

Treats at:

Outings and adventures:

Near Butterfly Beach

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Red Wing, MN, USA ~ St. James Hotel

August 2021

The St. James Hotel

Labor Day Weekend 2021. It’s still the pandemic. We’re in the Twin Cities but desperately looking for something that will get us out our COVID routine for a night, and Red Wing was one of the few towns within a short drive that we hadn’t visited for an overnight stay. What’s more, a few friends had recommended the St. James as a classic historic hotel in a Minnesota river town.

When we made the booking, we chose the most expensive room available, with a note that it wasn’t very expensive. We just wanted the best experience and, mistakenly in this case, equated room rates with experience. Lesson learned. (More on that in a moment.)

Heading south down the Mississippi

Red Wing from Barn Bluff

The hour-long drive from St. Paul to Red Wing is lovely. We chose a route as close to the Mississippi River as possible, which took us right by the Treasure Island Casino, a local landmark we had never actually seen. Not being gamblers but with $12 in our wallet, we decided to go for broke. Five minutes later, that adventure was over, and we continued on to Red Wing through the scenic river valley.

We arrived prior to check-in and explored the town, which has a big dose of civic pride. After a few hours, a visit to the Red Wing Shoe store, some ice cream, an art gallery exhibition, the ski jumping museum, and a drink at the hotel rooftop bar, we were ready to check into our junior suite.

St James Hotel: old versus new

The St. James was built in 1874 and is a “historic hotel of America,” in company with properties like the The Plaza in New York City, The Mayflower in Washington DC, the Palmer House in Chicago, and the Broadmoor in Colorado Springs. We thought it was pretty neat that Red Wing with a population of 16,000 people could claim a hotel in this company. Today the hotel is owned by the Red Wing Shoe Company, and it seems to be doing a good business. On the night we stayed, the hotel was entirely booked.

The St James has an old wing and a new wing, something we learned when we got there and did some exploring. Our room was in the new wing (we’re guessing circa 1970’s), and while it perfectly acceptable, it felt like a modern room trying to be something from the 1870s. The front desk staffer told us that all of the rooms are different and appointed with the same amenities and furnishings, but she also admitted that the historic wing is her preference — specifically Room 402, which we will ask for next time we visit.

A room without a view

The St. James resides on the charming Main Street in Red Wing, so rooms that look out the front have that view. Rooms toward the back face the Mississippi River. Somehow we managed to get the room with a smallish window and a view to the brick wall of the building next door. This wasn’t a big deal — one of our very favorite hotels in New York City offers similar views — but it did seem a little claustrophobic in this setting with the small window and low ceiling, and on a beautiful sunny day in early-September.

The room itself was spacious with a king bed, seating area, fireplace, wet bar, and an oversized bathroom with a shower and jetted tub. (We were in an ADA room so weren’t sure if the bathroom size was an ADA accommodation or typical for that room style). Everything was clean and well-maintained, and the bed was comfy. We could picture spending a few nights in this room during a Minnesota winter when the sun is scarce and a fireplace is most welcome.

The place to be in Red Wing

Downtown Red Wing offered more than we expected, and the St. James was definitely the center of activity. There seemed to be a bustle about the place that made you feel like you were in the right spot. We had a drink at the rooftop bar in the afternoon and then ate dinner in the accompanying restaurant, Scarlet Kitchen and Bar, later in the evening. In fact, we couldn’t get a booking until 8:30 pm, which is pretty cosmopolitan for a small Midwestern river town. While the bar and restaurant were short-staffed — so typical of service industries during the pandemic — the hard-working staff more than exceeded our expectations.

Stay details:

  • St. James Hotel on Main Street in Red Wing
  • Our stay: 1 night — September 5, 2021
  • Room: Junior suite

What we did, where we ate:

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Key West, FL, USA ~ H20 Suites

August 2021

Key West is an interesting place. On the surface, it has the markings of a party town: abundant access to frozen drinks, purveyors of “excursions” on every corner, and people cruising the main drag in golf carts designed to fit half a dozen passengers or more. When we arrived in Key West in August 2021 – still in COVID times – this was our first impression.

There’s more to Key West than meets the eye.

But during our week-long stay, we came to see that there’s more to Key West than meets the eye. And H2O Suites served as a terrific base camp to explore the island and, when needed, escape from it.

As first-timers to Key West, we chose our hotel based on experience of properties we tend to favor: small but not too small, independent (generally) ownership, quality (over quantity) amenities, and exceptional service. In a town – or is it on an island? – with loads of choices, H2O Suites seemed to check all the right boxes.

Key West International to H20 Suites

The drive from the Key West airport to the hotel is only about 10 minutes and takes a route mostly along the ocean with a few quick jogs during the latter part of the trip. In terms of landmarks, H2O Suites is just a few blocks from the island’s Southernmost Point. While most destinations we’ve traveled to by air involve flying into airports on the outskirts – or beyond – of central districts, this cab ride was amazingly quick, and it gave Key West immediate bonus points as a destination. We’ll note that many visitors access the island by car from Miami; according to all of the Key West residents with whom we spoke, the drive through the Keys Causeway is beautiful, but it can also be excruciatingly slow. We were happy to fly right in.

A hotel highlight: the central garden

Upon checking in with two friendly staff members in a modest lobby, we were escorted to our room through a beautiful central garden that gave us Northerners pause the first time we saw it and, quite honestly, every time we walked through during our stay.

In addition to the lush tropical foliage, the garden has a water feature that runs nearly its length with sculptures and a fireplace that came on each night; while certainly not needed in August temperatures, the fireplace was beautiful nonetheless. Early in our stay, we met a tiny lizard in the garden that came out on the sidewalk to catch some sun and some bugs. We took to watching for it each time we walked by. On several days, we even got to see the lizard’s big green uncle as we were going to/from our room, which, like each room in the hotel, was accessed from the garden rather than through a typically interior hallway.

Suite 15

When we made our booking, we debated whether we wanted a room with a private plunge pool on the first floor or one with a balcony overlooking the garden on the second (top) floor. The hotel has a really lovely rooftop pool, so we opted for the balcony rather than plunge pool, thinking we could request a change once we arrived if the plunge pool was too good to pass up.

Upon seeing our room – and the rooms with pools below us – we were happy with our choice. We really liked our perch on the top floor, which – from the balcony – felt a lot like a tree house. A few days into our stay, we did learn that the “plunge pool” rooms across the garden from us are more private; on a return visit, we might give one of those a try.

The balcony overlooking the garden (our room had a second, smaller balcony on the opposite end) was surely one of our favorite features, and we spent several mornings with coffee and several evenings with cocktails there. In between the two balconies was a spacious, comfortable and well-appointed room for our week-long stay.

A few features worth noting:

  • a marble-heavy bathroom with a big shower, plenty of space for two people, and lots of natural light;
  • a mini-bar with a sink and built-in fridge and freezer drawers. Turn-down service each night included Dove ice cream bars, along with baked goods for the next morning, and the staff made sure we always had plenty of water – very important for hydration in Florida in August;
  • a seating area with a couch and coffee table – and a second TV, which we turned on once just to say we used it;
  • more than adequate storage. The room had a large, well-structured closet and plenty of additional furnishings with drawers. Our only request would be for a few more hooks to hang wet bathing suits, towels, and exercise gear washed freshly washed from hot and humid excursions;
  • Egyptian cotton robes; two big umbrellas capable of standing up to tropical storms; and lots of towels, which came in handy for the multiple daily showers required by tropical heat.

Beyond our room

H2O Suites isn’t heavy on amenities; beyond guest rooms, it’s only the pool with poolside bar and fitness room. We didn’t set foot in the fitness room, but we spent plenty of time at the pool and were treated fabulously by the two staff members who were on duty during our stay. Throughout the day, a selection of gratis drinks and snacks are offered at the pool, and if those don’t suit, the bar is fully stocked. The pool isn’t large – it’s really more suited for soaking than swimming – but it’s perfect for cooling down and just the right depth for propping up on the edge to read a book – Hemingway perhaps?

The hotel also offers a concierge service; we didn’t end up using it much, but we did appreciate being able to rent bicycles for the week, which were, by the way, the perfect way to explore the island. On the list of excursions offered by the hotel is a day trip to Cuba. COVID – and politics – put that one on hold, but if we return, that would be top on our list.

Feedback for…a handful of guests

Our only quibble had nothing to do with the hotel itself or the staff, who were generally wonderful. One reason we were attracted to H2O Suites was the 25+ age policy; we felt this policy, along with the room rates, would eliminate visitors who had come to Key West for only a party. Unfortunately, there were a few (just a few) hotel guests who seemed to treat the hotel and the staff with little regard. For example, we cringed when – from the middle of the pool – a guest took to barking out orders for drinks to the person working at the poolside bar.

While H2O Suites may not make our top three all-time favorites, this Key West boutique hotel was certainly well-executed, rarely missing a beat. With a great location, a friendly and professional staff, and standards that met all our expectations, it’s a place we would certainly return to when we find ourselves in the southernmost tip of Florida again.

Stay details:

  • H20 Suites near the Southernmost Point in Key West
  • Our stay: 7 nights — August 7 – 14, 2021
  • Room: Luxury second-floor balcony suite

Where we ate, what we did:

Sunset in Key West from Hot Tin Roof

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Mexico City, Mexico ~ Downtown Mexico

January 2020

Four-and-a-half hours traveling south through a single time zone will get you from Minneapolis to Mexico City. The access hasn’t always been so convenient, so until recently, we had delayed a visit, even though mega-cities have long ranked high on our list of places to see. When Delta introduced a direct flight from Minneapolis and friends invited us for a long weekend in the city, we jumped at the opportunity. When those friends unfortunately had to cancel, we decided to go on our own, have some mezcal and tacos for them, and bring home ideas for next time.

La Condesa. Roma. Polanco. Coyoacán.

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Downtown Mexico

These were the neighborhoods that kept coming up as we researched Mexico City and places to stay. They all sounded lovely, but we were intrigued by a handful of articles that featured a hotel in the historic center of the city just a few blocks from the Zócalo, its main square. This part of Mexico City is experiencing a kind of renaissance, and while the hotel itself – aptly named Downtown Mexico – is only six years old, it is housed in a 17th-century palace situated in a UNESCO World Heritage area.


Palatial in a modern, minimalist way

In a city with 23 million people and things to see from end to end, we knew we would only dip our toes in the water during this short stay. The list of sights we wanted to see included several near the historic center, so that neighborhood seemed like a strategically wise choice. Then, when we read about Downtown Mexico and its adaptation of the palace building into what The Telegraph described as a neo-industrial hotel with lofty pared-down rooms and cool communal spaces, we were sold.

We arrived at Downtown Mexico on a warm January afternoon after being picked up at the airport by the hotel’s driver. As the porter delivered bags to our room, we enjoyed a welcome shot of mezcal and then got a brief introduction to the hotel’s facilities, including the rooftop pool and bar and the breakfast terrace. From there, we were on to our room, the Revolution Suite.

IMG_0839
Panorama – The Revolution Suite

We had seen pictures of the suite on the hotel’s website but were surprised – in the best way – when we entered for the first time. The scale of the space was breathtaking with barrel-vaulted ceilings 20 feet tall. The stone and plaster walls, tile floors and shuttered doors were complemented – but not overwhelmed – by simple wood and leather furniture. The architecture of the space provided the design, which had brutalist elements, but at the same time was soft and warm.

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Downtown’s good company

The hotel is small – 17 rooms – but it shares the palace building with several other businesses, many of which we took advantage of during our stay.

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Azul Historico

Azul Historico occupies one of two courtyards and is perhaps the most popular restaurant in the area. It was perpetually busy during our stay, and after having dinner there, we knew why. The palace also has a second restaurant, Puntarena, that specializes in fish; a small collection of Mexican-owned shops that sell boutique clothing, foods and gifts; and a well-regarded coffee shop on the first floor. Just outside the door of the hotel is one of Mexico City’s primary shopping districts, so we didn’t need to go far to find anything we might need.


Good to know

We don’t often use concierge services when we travel because we aren’t big planners, but Downtown’s chief concierge and her terrific colleagues helped us with several arrangements, including transport to and from the airport; tickets to the Frida Kahlo Museum; and reservations at Emilia (aka Milia), a relatively new arrival to Mexico City’s excellent dining scene. Throughout our stay, the staff also gave us helpful tips on things to see and do.

Downtown Mexico may not be the most luxurious place in which we have stayed, but it is certainly one of the most unique and memorable. It ranks in our top 3.

A few cautions for travelers with particular expectations: The hotel is in a bustling area, and the rooftop bar turns into a party spot at night. With our balcony door open, we could hear the sounds of the city late into the night. When we closed the door, it was very quiet. However, we can imagine that the rooms directly under the bar aren’t quite so peaceful.

Additionally, the rooms can be dark, particularly on cloudy days. We appreciated that the architecture of the room wasn’t cluttered with things like light fixtures, but that did mean the vast space was lit only with lamps and a votive candle — yes, a real candle. When the sun was out, light found its way in, and our room had the advantage of two shuttered doors on the east and west sides. Other rooms face only into the courtyard, and on a rainy day when the courtyard covers were drawn shut (we got to see the remarkably quick button-up on a rainy day), the whole building became quite dim. We love spaces that fluidly move between inside and outside and express the mood of the day, but we know not everyone feels the same.


Feeling fortunate

Downtown ranks as one of the most distinctive places we have stayed, and we feel lucky to have found it. The suite made the visit even more out of the ordinary; we highly recommend booking this particular room. Pictures can’t accurately capture the hotel’s spaces – and we could go on for much longer describing the many details we appreciated – but suffice it to say, Downtown Mexico is well worth a visit to experience yourself.


Stay details:

  • Downtown Mexico, central historic district
  • 3-night stay, January 17-19
  • Revolution Suite #14

Where we ate, what we did:

Kahlo
Frida Kahlo Museum

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