Category: Europe

Marylebone, London, UK ~ The Langham

February 2025

For a stretch of about 15 years, we visited London regularly, and we loved trying hotels in neighborhoods across the city. But our last visit was in 2018, and we had a lot of catching up to do. We know Kensington and Chelsea well and were tempted to return to a new hotel on familiar grounds (The Chelsea Townhouse was top of the list). We also, however, love Marylebone, which is near The Regent’s Park and close to so many of the things we love in the city.

In the very southeast corner of Marylebone, right across the street from the BBC’s Broadcasting House, sits one of London’s first luxury hotels: The Langham. After our terrific experience at The Langham Chicago, we decided to test the Langham brand, booking eight nights at the property where it all began: The Langham London.

Formal but not fusty

We arrived at Heathrow just after 7 in the morning, and our taxi was pulling up to The Langham by 8:15. The building is described by British Listed Buildings as “heavy Italianate style with some late Medieval details, French pavilion roofs and an east wing with a corner tower.” Put simply, it’s a building to behold – certainly at 8 in the morning, but, as we would later learn, even more beautiful at night.

The hotel’s interior is no less dramatic. The central lobby with shining marble floors and pillars supporting a tall ceiling is surrounded by a more intimate seating area with a fireplace; a room off to the side with a fabulous chandelier that houses the registration desk; and the Palm Court restaurant, which is reportedly where the tradition of British afternoon tea began. Because we arrived so early, our room wasn’t ready, but the staff member at reception got us checked in and then escorted us up to The Langham Club where we were invited to have a cappuccino and linger until our room was ready. We knew if we sat too long, jet lag would be the demise of our day, so after getting properly caffeinated, we headed out for a walk. On our way back out of the hotel – and feeling slightly less foggy – we took note of other beautiful common spaces, including the landings on each floor, each of which had artwork worth spending a little time with.

A classically beautiful room with abundant amenities

Within 45 minutes, we received word that our room was ready, so we returned to the club to pick up our key. We entered our room on the 4th floor to find sun streaming in through two large windows. A parquet-floored entry foyer with two closets to the left and the bathroom to the right led into a large room with a king-sized bed, a seating area, a coffee bar and an ample work space with a desk that faced into the room. While our tastes tend toward the modern, we had to admit that the traditional room was lovely. Books about London, a live orchid, paintings that looked to be more than simple prints, and a framed picture of the hotel’s chefs in 1907 along with a glass paperweight on the desk gave the room a distinct personality. As we were settling in, a bowl of fruit and box of chocolates arrived (the fruit would be resupplied throughout our stay).

The elegant bathroom included a deep tub, a separate water closet and a shower with some of the most amazing water pressure we’ve experienced in a hotel. Langham’s signature color is pink, and the color appears throughout the hotel, but the effect is not overly feminine. The delicate pink is balanced by dark woods and marbles, both of which featured in the bathroom. We loved the hotel’s bath products with their ginger flower signature scent, and the bamboo shoot on the vanity brought life to the space.

We used and appreciated all of the room’s amenities. From the multiple choices of china for our coffee to the fluffy Frette robes with slippers properly sized for each of us (the first time the small-footed of us had slippers that fit), we felt pampered. We loved that we could open the windows to sleep with fresh air coming in, and the storage allowed us to tuck all of our personal belongings out of sight.

Amazingly attentive service

A hotel itself is just part of the experience, and we have come to appreciate top-notch service when we encounter it. The Langham’s service felt flawless to us, and everyone we encountered was a pro. Our room was serviced multiple times during the day, but we were never interrupted. We had breakfast each morning in the hotel, and by the time we returned, the housekeepers had come and gone. Turn-down service was done when we left for dinner, whatever time that was. One of our favorite nightly rituals became anticipating the linen postcard with a story about The Langham that was left on our pillow each evening. We learned, among other things, about The Langham’s longstanding alliance with the BBC, about Langham appearances on the silver screen, and about the literary icons who frequented The Langham.

During our stay, the concierge team secured last-minute reservations at Trishna, a lauded (and quite small) neighborhood restaurant; porters held umbrellas over our heads as we got into taxis, and staff in the club learned our coffee preferences after the first day.

Nourished and quenched  

One of the best things about London is its eating and drinking establishments; it really is an embarrassment of riches. And some of those riches are right in The Langham. The room we chose included access to The Langham Club. When we booked the room, we thought the club might be a convenient place to get a cup of coffee before heading out on the day’s adventures. We’ll admit that we didn’t have high expectations. That perception was misplaced. The club – open throughout the day with a changing menu of food and drinks – became our living room. The promise of a coffee gets us out of bed each morning, and the coffee was delicious. Of course, the pastries, salmon and caviar, and eggs cooked to order didn’t hurt. In the club, we could also connect with a staff member who offered concierge-level services, and when we popped in during the evening, champagne flowed liberally.

During our stay, we also patronized the hotel’s pub – The Wigmore – twice; we had a drink in the Palm Court one evening and breakfast one morning; and we also visited the hotel’s bar, Artesian, and had a lovely conversation with our Polish server who talked to us about drinking Zubrowka vodka as a young person. (We’ll admit that we’ve had our fair share of this particular vodka, which we discovered at our neighborhood Russian restaurant). Each of our experiences at the hotel was well worth using as one of our limited London eating and drinking opportunities.

Quite possibly Langham fans

The Langham London

If you’re a regular reader of our blog, you’ll know that we tend to choose smaller, independent properties when we travel, and we certainly aren’t loyalists to any brand. But we both must admit that our two experiences at The Langham have made us think about where we might visit next because it has a Langham hotel. Can two wonderful experiences become three?

The Langham Chicago

We don’t imagine we’ll ever become exclusive to a particular hotel brand, but it’s fun to see how a brand can be expressed in different places. The Chicago and London Langham hotels are two very different properties, but they share things that we appreciate and that we would seek out. Stay tuned for where we next discover a Langham hotel.

Stay details:

  • The Langham London
  • 8-night stay: February 21 – March 1, 2025
  • Executive Club Room, #405

What we did, where we ate:

Back to HOTELLING home

Milan, Italy ~ Senato Hotel Milano

September 2024

In a fashionable and sophisticated city like Milan, the experience of searching for a hotel is an embarrassment of riches. Beyond international chains like the Mandarin Oriental and Four Seasons, Milan hosts dozens of smaller independent hotels that, in our exploration, looked promising. In the end – and following the advice of Condé Nast and its “best boutique hotel” designation – we chose Senato Hotel Milano.

A private residence turned hotel

Senato Hotel is the former home of the Ranza family, who converted their neo-classical residence on Via Senato into a hotel and now operate the 43-room property. We arrived via taxi from Milan’s central train station and stepped from the almost-always bustling street (Via Senato is one of the roads that rings central Milan) into a tranquil lobby that adjoins the central courtyard, the expanse of which is covered by a shallow reflecting pool. Because we were quite early and our room wasn’t ready, we settled into the garden space of the café for a cappuccino and the “salad everyone loves” (we loved it too) before checking into our room. On our way back to the registration desk, we paused to admire the tillandsia collection, which is tended by Milan-based gardener-landscape duo Bonanomi Benatti.

Our hideaway on the top floor

As we exited the elevator on the top floor, we were greeted by a skylit corridor with angled roof beams and only one other room besides ours. We felt a little like we had been given a passkey to a secret attic chamber. Our room at the end of the hall – the Senato Junior Suite –  was really three rooms: a living space with daybed, desk, coffee and tea bar, and large closets; a bedroom with a big terrace, and a beautiful Carrara marble bathroom with a separate water closet.

In our suite, the white floors, walls, and beamed ceilings served as a neutral and cheery palette to highlight the custom-designed furnishings made by Milanese craftspeople and well-chosen lighting and accessories. The room felt clean and uncluttered, and we appreciated that every surface wasn’t covered with something. This allowed the architectural elements of the room to shine, and we loved that the structure of the building was incorporated into the room’s design. (Side note: On this holiday, we had an unplanned overnight in Amsterdam, and were able to stay in one of our very favorite hotels, The Dylan. The room at The Dylan was also on the hotel’s top floor and featured attic-like ceiling lines with exposed beams. Both Senato and The Dylan do a fabulous job of capitalizing on a building’s architecture.)

Form following function

When we’re staying somewhere for more than one night, we like to unpack and stow away our luggage, which is never more than two carry-ons and a backpack. The large closets in our suite featured drawers, shelves, and hanging space that allowed us to put our clothes and our bags behind closed doors. In the bathroom, a long vanity with two sinks provided room for both of us, and we appreciated the separate water closet with toilet, bidet, and free-standing sink. The bedroom – also simple but beautiful – was oriented toward the terrace and the courtyard; we loved sleeping with the doors open and couldn’t hear any of the activity down below.

Four standouts

Our room featured two dormer windows oriented toward Via Senato: one in the living room and the second adjoining the jacuzzi tub and shower. The particular location of the windows in relationship to the rest of the building was the topic of some debate because we couldn’t see them from the street, but we eventually concluded, based on the footprint of the 5th floor, that they were likely set back from the rest of the building. Both of these windows were encased in short walls, and a lovely little tree – perhaps a maple or plumb – was planted outside each one.

When we were at the hotel in early October, the trees were just beginning to change color for autumn. Taking a bath or shower in a rooftop room with a view out to a live tree made our suite feel like a sanctuary. We will note that neither these windows facing the street nor the glass doors to the terrace afforded any kind of panoramic view, but that didn’t bother us; after all, a view is what the terrace of the Duomo is for!

Our second favorite feature of the Senato suite was a marble sculpture that served as a speaker for playing music from our iPhones. The OVO amplifier worked so well that we were tempted to bring one home, and the hotel shop sells them, but carrying home something made of Carrara seemed a little weightier than what we had in mind.

Following the theme of design and function, we both loved the espresso machine that allowed for a customized espresso shot. And for one of us, the Dyson hair dryer and hair straightener – the equipment our hair stylist uses – felt luxurious and came in very handy on the days it rained.  

At the top of our list

We arrived in Milan after a short stay in Como at a vacation apartment that we found on the Plum Guide. While that experience was worth trying, we looked forward to checking into a hotel, and we were hopeful that our experience at Senato would match our expectations. It did; we loved everything about Senato. From the central location that provided easy access to all of Milan’s charm to the understated calm of our top floor oasis, everything worked. The Ranza family can certainly count us among its fans, and we can’t wait to return to get to know the hotel and Milan a little better.

Stay details:

What we did, where we ate:

Back to HOTELLING home

Paris, France ~ Maison Souquet

October 2023

This stay in Paris, our first in 15 years, came after spending four days in Lyon in the modern, light, and airy Villa Maïa. For Paris, where we had four more days, we wanted something that would match the mood of the city and of Montmarte, the neighborhood we would call our home base. Searching for the right hotel in Paris can be overwhelming – there are just so very many choices – but Maison Souquet kept appearing on our go-to lists, so we decided to give it a go. When we made our booking, only two “De Luxe” rooms were available for all four nights, and the team at Maison Souquet sent pictures and helpfully described the features of both: peaceful courtyard view or street view of Paris rooftops; a small balcony four floors up or windows on the first floor; shower or deep bath. They also promised to let us know if a larger junior suite became available for the duration of our visit. With Paris Fashion Week just ending and the World Cup Rugby Championships arriving in the city along with us, we were glad to secure a room.

Sumptuous all around

Maison Souquet is steps from the Blanche metro station down one of the streets that run south from the Moulin Rouge. It’s officially in the 9th arrondissement, right at the bottom of Montmarte. As a former brothel (the hotel is named after its madame) the hotel’s exterior is unassuming, and the two red lights outside the front door were the landmarks we used to find it the first time and on all of our returns. Immediately upon entering on our initial arrival, we felt as if we had entered a secret sanctuary in plain sight of the hustle and bustle – and quite honestly, the tourist spectacle – just outside. The hotel’s sumptuous design embraced us: low lights, dark hues with voluptuous textiles on the furniture and the walls, a candle burning with the hotel’s signature scent, and a warm welcome from two members of the Maison Souquet team. It was so different from our typical tastes, but oh-so beautiful.

As one staff member attended to our registration details, another gave us an introduction to the hotel, walking us through the multiple rooms on the ground floor that the brothel’s “guests” would visit: the reception to meet Madame Souquet, the inner salon (now the hotel’s beautiful bar) to meet the women of the brothel, and the parlor where men could have a pre-departure refreshment. We also got a description of the basement spa, which is available for private use by guests, and an offer to use the lovely backgammon and chess sets displayed on a shelf in the salon. By the time we were done with our tour, our luggage had been delivered to our room, and we were escorted up.

Petite Marguerite

Upon advice of the hotel team, we had chosen the Marguerite room on the fourth floor, a room with Chinese-inspired design. (All of the rooms are named for women who purportedly worked at the brothel and have designs inspired by locations touched by the French empire). Like the common areas on the first floor, our room was decadently beautiful. It was small – not much room for more than a bed and a few beside tables – but the deep red and gold textiles with shiny black lacquer accents created a coziness that made the size feel just right.

The balcony overlooked the buildings across rue de Bruxelles and brought in the sunshine during the day. Even though the room was petite, we found a place for all of our things and even managed to stow our luggage away in the spacious closet. Our first night in the Maison Souquet brought heavy rain overnight, which we could hear and smell through the open window, and a fantastic sleep with dreams of Paris from days gone by.

…And the less petite but equally charming Païva

On our way to coffee on our first full day in Paris, we learned that the hotel had just received a cancellation for a junior suite, and we were offered the upgrade. We had settled into the Marguerite but thought it would be fun to stay in a second room and also enjoy a little more space for our next three nights. La Païva, on the third floor, gave us more breathing room with a chaise lounge and coffee table, a separate toilet room, and two windows that, this time, looked out to the courtyard. The yellow and black textiles and upholstery were an homage to the Far East, and we especially loved the portrait of the goddess-like woman above the chaise.

Pulling off design like this is not easy. For it to work, it has to be impeccable. No scratches, no stains, no smudges (on the many glass surfaces we encountered in both rooms), nothing crooked or wobbly or drippy. And Maison Souquet did pull it off, in every respect but one. In both rooms, a glaze finish on the black tile floor had begun to peel; at first, we thought the uneven surface was by design, but then we noticed the flakes and knew it wasn’t purposeful. But this won’t last. On our last night during turndown service, the hotel left a feedback card and we made a note – the only suggestion amidst our effusive comments. On our flight home, we received an email from the hotel’s general manager who thanked us for the compliments and noted that the floors are scheduled for repair the next month.

Not to be missed: drinks and a swim

Each night at Maison Souquet, we enjoyed fabulous cocktails in the bar. At the beginning of the week, the scene was quiet and relaxed with hotel guests. By the time Thursday and Friday arrived, we were joined by patrons from around Paris, many of whom looked like they had come directly from one of the Paris Fashion Week shows (from the runways of those shows). In every experience, the bartenders were attentive and generous with advice about their favorite drinks and nibbles. We were just visitors from a Midwestern American city, but we always felt like VIPs. 

This feeling was amplified by the time we spent in the hotel’s spa – just the two of us because we had reserved it all for ourselves. For each night of our stay, we were invited to spend an hour of “privatized” time in the spa. At the designated time, a Maison Souquet staff member picked us up in our room and delivered us downstairs where a ten-meter pool and hammam (steam room) awaited. As the staff member was leaving, she pointed to fresh glasses of water, fluffy towels, the post-spa shower, and a phone on the bench, which she said she would ring five minutes before she would pop down to pick us up. Let’s just say, if every spa experience were like this one, we might never get out to explore the cities on our trips.

A beautiful hotel made more wonderful by exceptional staff

Both of our stays in France during this holiday – in Lyon and Paris – were characterized by truly exceptional service. To a person –in email and in-person communications – every exchange we had with the team at Maison Souquet was top-notch. The staff was knowledgeable and helpful but also friendly and never stuffy. They seemed genuinely happy to see us, whether it was during our arrival, on a stop in the middle of the day, or at an early-morning check-out. After our visit, we had a few email exchanges with the hotel manager who had reached out after we left our feedback card. He said he had shared our praises with the team. We hope they all know what good work they do.

Stay details:

  • Maison Souquet, Paris, France, 9th arrondissement bordering Montmarte
  • 4-night stay: October 10-14, 2023
  • De Luxe Room (Marguerite) and Junior Suite (La Païva II)

What we did, where we ate:

Back to HOTELLING home

Lyon, France ~ Villa Maïa

October 2023

Copenhagen was our intended destination for a fall 2023 holiday, but by the time we got around to making arrangements, flights to that city were very full. For whatever reason, flights to Paris, which are, happily, direct from Minneapolis, had a little more breathing room. We decided to spend the latter part of our holiday in France’s capitol but wanted to visit a new place as well. Lyon is a favorite of some of our friends – the “best city in France” they’ve claimed – and we had only passed through, so we decided to spend the first part of our fall vacation there. From Paris, a two-hour TGV train got us to Lyon, and a 15-minute taxi ride took us to the top of Fourvière Hill and to Villa Maïa.

“Just the hotel Lyon needed”

When we’re choosing a hotel, we typically start with a few go-to sources: The (London) Telegraph, Forbes, The New York Times. A 2017 article in Forbes written a few months after Villa Maïa opened, called it “just the hotel Lyon needed” – a “refreshingly contemporary hotel” in a UNESCO-designated historic city. We tend to prefer modern design, and the pictures showed stunning views of the city from the hotel’s hilltop locale. What’s more, we knew our Paris hotel would be intimate and cozy, so the idea of a light-filled, airy property in Lyon seemed to be a nice contrast.

Upon arrival in the early afternoon, we were greeted by Julien, one of two fabulous concierges who had worked with us prior to our arrival (more on this team below). Our room wasn’t quite ready, so Julien gave us an orientation to Fourvière Hill and sent us to see a few sites and grab a cocktail at Bulle, a bar with a lovely view next to Basilica Notre Dame de Fourvière. When we returned, our bags had already been delivered to our room, and we were introduced to the hotel’s amenities – a breakfast room, library, bar, spa and gym – before being brought to our home for the next four nights, a city-view room on the second floor.

Two floors up, but on top of the city

Upon entering our room, we were both drawn to the balcony and the view of Lyon. A wall of glass separated the room from the balcony, so the balcony truly felt like an extension of the room. And because October had been extraordinarily warm, the balcony was a lovely place to be at all times of day and night. Inside, the spacious, light-filled room was decorated in neutral tones with splashes of color to add some fun. All in all, the room had a minimalist approach to design, which we always appreciate. The exception was the desk/storage unit opposite the bed, the surface of which was nearly covered with a coffee maker and kettle, mugs and espresso cups, glasses and bottles of water (re-filled whenever needed), and hotel information. We used all of these things and appreciated them, but ideally, it would have been nice to have a place to hide them away and de-clutter that part of the room. Generally speaking, though, there was plenty of storage, and we were able to fully unpack and stow our suitcases out of view, which we always appreciate.

The lovely Carrara marble bathroom had a deep soaking tub with a window out to the bedroom, a large shower with a built-in bench, and a separate closet with a Japanese toilet that doubled as a bidet. Fluffy robes and towels, custom bath products and under-sink storage for our own toiletries made the bathroom feel luxurious.

Inviting us out of our room

Some of the best spaces in our favorite hotels are the common spaces, and at Villa Maïa, we found lots of spots to linger: a bar with its own balcony, a library overlooking a lovely garden, a breakfast room with outdoor tables for warm days, and a spa reminiscent of a Roman bath (Fourvière Hill was once a Roman city, and ruins of a theatre, an aqueduct and a bath feature prominently).

On one afternoon, we had the pleasure of being the only guests in the spa and relished having the pool, the hot tub and the steam room (hammam) to ourselves. Breakfast each morning was no less indulgent. French cheeses, croissants and pastries, fruits and yogurts, eggs made to order, wonderful coffee, and freshly squeezed apple juice fueled us for the day; we justified our consumption by noting that the climb up Fourvière Hill from Old Lyon (Vieux Lyon) was a workout, and by promising to take the funicular railway only going down.

An exceptional team

Even before we arrived, the Villa Maïa team went into action to ensure a top-notch visit. Julien and François, the hotel’s concierge duo, helped with train reservations and several bookings at Lyon restaurants (Lyon is recognized as a center of French gastronomy). All of these were outlined on a printed itinerary left in our room. During our stay, the two were always available and helped us tailor our visit to the things we really enjoy. And while the concierge team was terrific, the services didn’t stop with Julien and François. Without exception, everyone we encountered at Villa Maïa was top-notch: from the front desk team (at all hours) and the housekeeping staff to the bar and breakfast staff.

A property that invites a big exhale

Lyon is a bustling city with lots to see and do and, like all cities, can seem frenetic, particularly on lovely fall days when the city happens to be hosting the World Cup of Rugby, and tourists are everywhere. We love that kind of energy but also love having a place to unwind a bit and take a breath. For us, Villa Maïa was just the place. We started each day looking out over a serene garden and ended it, from the calm of our balcony, watching the city very slowly go to sleep. We are already talking about our next visit to Lyon – perhaps coupled with a trip back to the Piemonte region in Italy – and Villa Maïa will certainly be part of that visit.

Stay details:

  • Villa Maïa, Lyon, France, Fourvière Hill
  • 4-night stay: October 5-10, 2023
  • City-view room

What we did, where we ate:

Back to HOTELLING home

Sinio, Italy ~ Hotel Castello di Sinio

October 2022

Both of us have been big fans of the wines of Piemonte, particularly those crafted with the Nebbiolo grape, and we were looking for a place to stay in the Barolo wine region from where we could explore all the area had to offer. After much research, we chose Hotel Castello di Sinio, located in the small village of Sinio just outside the official boundary of Barolo proper. We knew we would need a rental car to fully experience the area, and Sinio was well-placed to put us close to all of the beautiful small towns and famous vineyards of Barolo.

A warm welcome to Barolo

Our travel plans had us flying from Amsterdam to Turin, at which point we picked up our rental car and headed south through Piemonte and toward the hills of the Langhe. As we drove deeper into the wine region, the flat agricultural land of the Po Valley gave way to rolling hills and vineyards. The scenery was spectacular, with historic hilltop villages poised above the vineyards cascading down the hillsides below.

We arrived at the hotel and were warmly greeted by the hotel staff. We had no sooner completed the brief check-in process when the proprietor, Denise Pardini, took us under her wing. Denise not only owns and operates the hotel but is also an expert in the culture, food, and wine of the region. She asked us about our plans and spent well over an hour giving us a primer on the wines of Barolo, the geology and soils, the characteristics of the many vineyard areas within Barolo, tips on travel, which towns to visit, where to eat, and much more. Denise and her team were incredibly helpful throughout our stay.

Sleeping close to God

After our introduction to all things Barolo, we were led to our room. On the short walk across the courtyard area, we noted the beautiful hotel grounds, green and refreshing after our journey.

We’ve stayed in many unique places, but even by our standards, the room was a standout. Sleeping in the former chapel of the castello, complete with a stone arched ceiling in the bedroom, was — pun intended — heavenly. The castello’s history permeated our quarters, from our giant door key to the meter-thick walls. We had a spacious bedroom (the chapel), a sitting room with two sofas, and a bathroom, all of which had windows that opened to the autumn Piemontese breeze. The decor was a little over-the-top for our taste, but it felt true to the property, and the theme played out throughout the hotel. It was clear that all of the choices were intentional and showcased the owner’s design sense. One of our favorite touches was the turn-down service with a unique quote for each day.

We had one minor irritation: the hand-held shower head leaked badly, making bathing a challenge. B we reported this at the end of the stay, and we’re confident the problem has been remedied.

A retreat within a wine wonderland

At check-in, when we asked about restaurants, Denise, the hotellier, pointed out that we probably wouldn’t need lunch after enjoying a breakfast at the hotel. She was right. Each morning, we sat outside under a vine-covered arbor and filled up on cappucino, expertly prepared egg goodies that varied by day, local produce, and pastries. If we didn’t have fun adventures ahead of us, it would have been quite hard to leave the table.

The hotel also featured a small pool with amazing views of Sinio and the Barolo hills; more than a few times we imbibed in a glass of Barolo poolside, while watching the hotel cats frolic — or, more often, nap — around the grounds. The weather was beautiful, so we spent most of our time at the hotel outside, but the property also featured a small but inviting lobby full of wine books and a tiny bar, a restaurant that serves up delicious Peimontese specialities, and a breakfast room. The hotel was once the castle — or manor house — for Sinio, standing at the very top of the hilltop village, so we also enjoyed exploring Sineo’s narrow, steep streets, its village church, and the local bocce court where locals congregated each evening.

What we did, where we ate

Stay details:

  • Hotel Castello di Sinio, vicolo del castello, 1, 12050 Sinio CN, Italy
  • 4-night stay: October 5-9, 2022
  • Chapel Suite: Room 16

What we did, where we ate:

Wine-related:

  • Wine Class: Introduction to the wines and terrior of Barolo. This was an excellent intro taught by the Castello proprietor Denise.
  • Wine Class: Intro to Wines of the Langhe. Taught by local wine expert Evan Byrnelah at the Castello.
  • Wine Class: Barolo Master Class. Taught by Stefano Moiso at Enoteca La Vite Turchese in the town of Barolo. Highly recommended.
  • Winery visit to Mazoni Giovanni in Monforte d’Alba. Graciously hosted by Mirella Manzone.

Eating and drinking:

Outings and adventures:

  • Truffle Hunt with Guiseppe, Giacomo and Luna the truffle-sniffing dog. Arranged by the Castello. The hunt took place off of Via Conforso near Valle Talloria. A wonderful experience.
  • Gelato at La Regale Nocciole after a wrong turn.
  • International Alba White Truffle Fair.
  • Visits to the towns of Serralunga, Barolo, Castiglione Falletto, Monforte, and Serravalle.

Back to HOTELLING home

Turin, Italy ~ Turin Palace Hotel

October 2022

After four nights at Hotel Castello di Sinio, our stay in Turin was planned simply to make our transport to Turin airport easier. Since we would only be staying for one night, we wanted a hotel in the city center, hoping to get a brief taste of Turin. The Turin Palace Hotel fit the bill. As it turns out, we were impressed with both the hotel and the city, and we hope to return someday and spend more time. 

Room with a view

Our room on the fourth floor was in pristine condition and well-appointed. It was a good contrast to the rather more rustic charm of the Castello di Sinio. Our favorite part was its amazing view, and we had fun looking out across the city rooftops, with the Chiesa Parocchiale di San Secondo Martire dominating the panorama.

Our private outdoor patio was absolutely huge — one of the biggest we’ve had at a hotel. Unfortunately, the weather wasn’t cooperative, and we could only dream of spending time outside with a coffee or glass of wine, taking in the wonderful view.

The hotel was tasteful and had some wonderful design elements, including a gorgeous formal stairwell and a simply stunning dining room where we enjoyed breakfast, which, quite happily, included a large selection of Piemontese chocolate.

Stay details:

  • Turin Palace Hotel, Via Paolo Sacchi, 8, 10128 Torino TO, Italy
  • One-night stay, October 9, 2022
  • Special Room with Terrace, Room 407

What we did, where we ate:

Back to HOTELLING home

Amsterdam, The Netherlands ~ The Dylan

October 2022

Our stay at The Dylan was a long…time…coming. Two-and-a-half years to be precise. We originally made a booking for March 2020 but had to cancel when the pandemic arrived. The Dylan was kind enough to offer a credit to use by year’s end (we had prepaid). But when COVID dragged on, The Dylan extended our credit two more times, eventually until May 2022. Travel began opening up in The Netherlands in March 2022, but at that time, we couldn’t get away.

When it looked, at last, as if we could visit Amsterdam in October 2022, The Dylan once again extended our credit. In our minds, this courtesy went far above and beyond, and we wanted to make sure The Dylan realized at least some financial benefit from our stay two years after our original booking, so we upgraded our room and assured the folks at the hotel that we would, in fact, make it this time. Much to our delight, we did!

Finally, we have arrived

Upon our arrival at the hotel on the Keizersgracht Canal (we took the train from Schiphol Airport to Amsterdam Central Station and then had a lovely 10-minute walk to The Dylan) we were welcomed in to the intimate lobby to sit by the fireplace and take care of registration details. While completing the paperwork, we’ll admit that one of us was momentarily overcome with emotion; the check-in process was symbolic of the fact that we had finally made it to The Dylan after so many false starts and, on a larger scale, symbolic of the fact that we were finally travelling internationally again.

Our luggage was taken off our hands in exchange for tea and baked goods. Because we arrived at 11 am, our room wasn’t ready, but after giving us a tour of the hotel’s amenities, the reception staff pointed us in the direction of a nearby spot to get coffee and handed us a city map so we could do some exploring. They promised a phone call when our room was ready.

A truly beautiful room

After a cappuccino and walk around central Amsterdam, we returned to see if our room was ready. It was, and a member of the staff escorted us up to give a primer on the room’s features. We had chosen a junior suite with a canal view, and the view was one of the first things we noticed. Two big windows looked directly out on the Keizersgracht. But the room itself matched the view. The generously sized suite included a seating area with a love seat and two chairs, a desk for two, a well-stocked coffee/cocktails bar, and a bathroom with a deep soaker tub, a spacious shower and a separate toilet closet. The design in darker hues was modern but not cold; it felt a little masculine, which was a nice shift from the design approach we often see.

A few features of the room are worth noting. The Bose sound system with The Dylan’s playlist was queued up when we arrived and each day when we returned to the room. The playlist hit just the right tone – coincidentally, it included a song from a “neighbor,” Bon Iver – and although we played our own music once or twice, we were happy to let The Dylan choose the music. The Illy espresso machine was perfect for the few mornings when we had to wake to an alarm and needed a caffeine boost before leaving the room. We couldn’t get enough of the Aesop bath products. And after a hot shower or a nice bath, the fluffiest-ever slippers awaited.

Getting it right again…and again

The room hit all the right notes for us, but it was the service that capped off the experience and made The Dylan one of our all-time top stays. Shortly after arriving, a staff member delivered a big bottle of water, a box of Vinoos wine gummies and a handwritten note from the general manager. These little surprises continued throughout our stay, with each night’s turndown service featuring a little gift (a Dutch clogs keychain, baked goods, more wine gummies) and daily housekeeping service that replenished anything we may have used the night before.

The concierge team was top-notch and helped us with restaurant bookings and an early-morning transport to the airport. And the bartenders in the hotel bar, Occo, introduced us to some terrific local spirits.

Beyond our room

The Dylan occupies two buildings that represent classic Amsterdam architecture; from the street, the hotel blends right in with its neighbors. The front entrance sits at the far end of a lovely courtyard, and the connected buildings result in passageways made for exploring. Our room was the ideal choice for our first stay at The Dylan; the canal view is classic. But every individually designed room at the hotel looks like a stand-out, and we’d be tempted to try a different room on our next visit just to experience something new. Beyond our room, we spent time in the hotel’s lounge looking out on its inner courtyard. All of the common areas are inviting and feel like extensions of guest rooms’ living space.

Before our visit to The Dylan, it had been 30 years since we spent time in Amsterdam. For travelers from the US, the city can tend to be viewed as a transfer spot to other European destinations. But Amsterdam is a city with much to offer, and The Dylan is one of its shining stars. We can’t wait to return.

Stay details:

  • The Dylan Amsterdam, 9-Streets neighborhood on the Keizersgracht Canal
  • 4-night stay: October 6-10, 2022
  • Canal view junior suite, Room #40

What we did, where we ate:

Eating and drinking:

Coffee at:
Drinks at:
Dinner at:
Outings and adventures:

Back to HOTELLING home

Ålesund, Norway ~ Hotel Brosundet

September 2019

Ålesund is one of the most unique towns in Norway, and it was an obvious choice for a visit during a trip to Norway. A charming and easily-encompassed city, Ålesund is renowned for its Art Nouveau architecture. Because we would be there only one night, it was important to find a hotel close to the center of town, and the Hotel Brosundet had an excellent location right on the water and within walking distance of the entire city center.

First, some history

Ålesund’s charm came at a terrible price. On a night in January 1904, most of the city, built predominantly of wood, was destroyed by fire. Fortunately, Kaiser Wilhelm of Germany had spent time in the area and came to the rescue, providing needed materials and skilled workers to rebuild. And this time the city would be built of brick and stone in the then-popular Jugendstil or Art Nouveau style. Since much of the city was rebuilt in a relatively short period of time, the city center has a remarkable uniformity of style.

img_0798A place by the water

Hotel Brosundet was an easy choice for lodging. The family-owned hotel has a sterling reputation and is right in the center of town overlooking a picturesque inlet. The hotel building was originally a warehouse, and the hotel conversion is a design-lover’s dream. Our room was well-appointed, but the real delight was the view out over the water.

In good hands

As much as we think we know what goes into a great hotel experience, sometimes it’s the intangibles that take a hotel from good to great. Hotel Brosundet checks all the obvious boxes: location, service, quality of rooms and dining, and so on. But there is something more here: a sense that you’re in good hands, almost as though you’re at home, relaxing and immersed in a comforting atmosphere.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Worth the effort

Norway is replete with jaw-dropping scenery, so it’s no wonder Norwegians love to be outside, and seemingly every town has hiking amenities right at the doorstep. Ålesund is no exception. If you want a bit of exercise, find your way to the city park at the top of Lyhauggata and look for the stairs that take you to the top of Aksla Hill. It’s a bit of a climb, but there are plenty of resting places along the way, and at each one, you’ll gaze in wonderment at the scenery. The view from the top is no less than spectacular. Your effort will be rewarded with a fine view looking down at the town and various islands as the fiords give way to the Atlantic Ocean.

img_0826

Stay details

  • Hotel Brosundet
  • Location: , Ålesund Norway
  • Our stay: 1 night, September 16, 2019
  • Room 2009, harbor view room

What we ate, what we did

  • Dinner and breakfast in the hotel–excellent
  • A walk through town
  • A hike to the top of Aksla Hill for a wonderful view

Back to HOTELLING home

Longyearbyen, Svalbard, Norway ~ Basecamp Hotel

September 2019

IMG_0975While researching various destinations for our trip to Norway, we learned that it was fairly easy to travel to the city of Longyearbyen in the Svalbard archipelago. Although Svalbard is closer to the North Pole than to much of Norway, it belongs to the latter, and SAS Airlines has regularly-scheduled flights from Oslo. So how could the opportunity be missed? Svalbard is a place that superlatives were made for: otherworldly scenery, one-sixth of the world’s polar bears, prime aurora borealis viewing, whales, and numerous glaciers (for now), not to mention the world’s northernmost commercial airport, the northernmost statue of Lenin, and, importantly, the northernmost craft brewery in the world–Svalbard Bryggeri.

Adventure awaits

img_1023With the exception of a handful of mostly abandoned mining towns, Longyearbyen is the only city on the entire archipelago, and it contains almost all of the lodging options. Fortunately those options are excellent. With a bit of internet research, we chose Basecamp Hotel, a part of the Basecamp Explorer collection of adventure hotels. We also learned that Basecamp Hotel is a good resource for arranging adventures to see more of Svalbard.

Rustic charm with a side of kitsch

Basecamp is kitted out like a trapper’s cabin with furs, rustic woodwork, thick blankets, and a plethora of arctic paraphernalia throughout the property. The hotel is small, and the staff is very welcoming. The overall impression is one of coziness and warmth, which is much appreciated as a contrast to the arctic scenery outside.

IMG_0991

Amenities plus

During our stay, the hotel never struck a wrong note. The room was clean and comfy, with plenty of hooks for jackets and gear. The woolen window coverings were a nice touch, as was the little table-and-chairs ensemble. The good Wi-Fi was an unexpected bonus, and the absence of a television in the room (or anywhere on the property as far as we could tell) was very much appreciated. The breakfast offering was excellent, and the coffee was very good (something we found to be the norm throughout Norway). We even appreciated the hotel’s request that guests remove their shoes at the front door, which is a custom that has carried over from the town’s mining days when miner’s shoes were always covered with coal dust.

 

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Longyearbyen: more than expected

Longyearbyen surprised with its amenities: a post office, a bank with an ATM, a grocery store, a good selection of bars and restaurants to satisfy almost any taste, and a wonderful coffee shop with friendly staff. Notably, Svalbard Museum punches well above its weight; don’t miss it.

img_1051.jpeg
Svalbard Museum

It was particularly fun to watch the local children making their way down the pedestrian lane to school, and we happened to be there on the day of the Global Climate Strike when Longyearbyen’s students marched through town and gave speeches. These were made all the more urgent when we considered that Svalbard is expected to be severely impacted by climate change in coming years.

Plenty to do

IMG_1268
Nordenskiöld glacier

Unless you want to confine your stay to Longyearbyen, it’s important to make reservations for any Svalbard adventures or excursions before you visit. Depending on the length of your stay, you can arrange activities that take up to a full week or more. Because we had only two days, we chose a day-long excursion aboard the MS Polargirl to visit Pyramiden, a mostly-abandoned Russian mining town, and the Nordenskiöld glacier. This excursion — a last-minute choice when our original booking, a hike to the Global Seed Vault, was cancelled — was helpfully arranged by the staff at Basecamp Hotel.

Stay details

  • Basecamp Hotel
  • Location: Longyearbyen, Svalbard, Norway
  • Our stay: 2 nights, September 18 & 19, 2019
  • Room 3

What we ate, what we did

A helpful website

  • The Visit Svalbard website was a very helpful resource for excursions and general information. Highly recommended.

Back to HOTELLING home

Oslo, Norway ~ The Thief

September 2019

Our two-night stay at The Thief capped off a 10-day visit to Norway that included — between the two of us — six cities, nine inter-Norway flights, seven hotels, and a whole lot of rain. The Thief was meant to be a little treat at the end, a chance to splurge a bit in Oslo before heading back across the Atlantic and back to work.

It didn’t disappoint.

The marathon dodge

One of the features that led us to The Thief was its location on Tjuvholmen (Thief Island), a part of Oslo formerly known for “its reputation as a place where drunks and thieves lurked and criminals were often taken to be executed.” Those days are clearly gone. The master-planned — and very scrubbed up — district now features restaurants, shops, art galleries, a contemporary art museum, a pebble beach, loads of public art, and a single hotel.

IMG_0312
Tjuvholmen (Thief Island)

The day we checked in to The Thief happened to coincide with the Oslo Marathon, a terrific event but also a not-insignificant disruption to the ways in which one traverses a city that has more waterways than roadways (maybe not exactly true, but….). Our relatively short walk from St. Olav’s plass to Tjuvholmen — what would normally be about 10 minutes — ended up taking the better part of an hour, as we not only had to get across the path of the racers but also negotiate the 100,000 people cheering them on. When we finally arrived at the hotel, all of that work getting there made the news that we had been upgraded to a one-bedroom suite all the better.

The Thief Suite

IMG_0300

A few of the places we had stayed in Norway were nice — and one couldn’t be matched for uniqueness — but out rooms at The Thief were certainly higher on the indulgence scale than any of the others. Two balconies, two bathrooms (each with a shower and tub), a sitting room, a bedroom, a Nespresso machine (actually two of those), original artwork, many bed pillows, a mounted bug in a glass cylinder, fresh flowers, and a very high-tech toilet greeted us. It seemed that two nights wouldn’t give us enough time to use all of the suite’s features.

But we would do our best.

Many hits, perhaps a small miss or two

The Thief gets so many things right. We particularly loved the just-right size of the hotel (114 rooms), the views out to Oslo Fjord and back to Tjuvholmen (although the island development project itself was a little too programmed for us), the artwork throughout the hotel (a nice addition to the loads of public art throughout Oso), the breakfast (Norwegian hotel breakfasts rarely disappoint; the one at The Thief was exceptional), the complimentary tickets to the Astrup Fearnley Museum, the turn-down service with hot herbal tea and fresh cookies (we added a little aquavit from the downstairs bar to the mix), and the stand-up service from (almost) all of the staff.

We could offer only a few critiques: Our visit to the rooftop bar didn’t parallel the rest of our experiences at The Thief. The service was — quite honestly — not very good, and the cocktails lacked sophistication, particularly considering the surroundings. Our second critique — the high-tech lighting system — is probably due more to user error than actual functionality, but we didn’t love what seemed to be some kind of sensor  that turned on the bathroom lights in the middle of the night. While we’re sure we could have figured the system out, we didn’t want to take the time to do so.

Opulence over minimalism

After spending 10 days immersed in Scandinavian design — a lot of functional, yet tasteful minimalism — The Thief was almost a sensory overload. But everything was warm and inviting. And while we loved the mid-fall sunshine, we couldn’t help wonder what it would be like to spend a few days at The Thief in the dark of an Oslo winter. Those pillows, deep tubs, hot coffee, and comfy slippers — which guests are invited to take home — all would seem very appealing in December or January.

Stay details

  • The Thief
  • Location: Tjuvholmen Island, Oslo
  • Our stay: 2 nights, September 21 and 22
  • Room: The Thief Suite: Rooms 802 & 804

Where we ate, what we did

IMG_0271
Oslo National Opera and Ballet

Back to HOTELLING home