Past Stays and Reminiscences

This page features some of the places we stayed prior to starting hotelling.org. The descriptions are briefer and the photos fewer, but we offer a few of our memories.


Chicago, USA ~ The Gray ~ January 2017

The Gray had just opened when we arrived in Chicago for a birthday weekend. Brand new hotels are always nice, and this is a Kimpton property, so we were pretty sure the hotel would be stylistically fun. It didn’t disappoint. The hotel is in the Financial District, so the neighborhood is quiet on the weekend, but that was fine. We actually enjoyed the chance to stroll slowly through the the loop on a wintery Saturday and take in the architecture (without getting in anyone’s way).


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The Fairmont

Vancouver, Canada ~ The Fairmont ~ November 2016

A little escape to Vancouver for American Thanksgiving. When we arrived, our room wasn’t ready, so we took an upgrade to a room with a fabulous view of Vancouver Harbor and access to the club lounge, which was well worth it. A quality stay all around made memorable by our fascination with yule log TV.


London, England ~ Zetter Town House, Marylebone ~ September 2016

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The Zetter, Marylebone

A small place with bold design — think modern medieval — and lovely cocktails to be had in the main floor lounge/living room. Perhaps, though, a little too small. We had a plumbing issue, and word from the staff was that no one could troubleshoot until the next day. Thankfully before packing up and moving to a new room, the problem resolved itself. On our second night, we were treated to cocktails by two friends who were at the Zetter just for drinks. They had sat across from us on the Heathrow Express and recognized us when we walked in to the hotel. In all of  London, how funny we would end up in the same place as our trainmates.


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The view from Apex Waterloo

St. Andrew’s Scotland ~ Hotel Du Vin ~ September 2016

We didn’t take any photos of this hotel, but we both remember it being quite nice. We particularly liked that each room was named after a Scotch, and we made a point of trying some of our room’s namesake. Most people go to St. Andrew’s for the golf; we were fascinated by the ruins of St. Andrew’s Cathedral.

Also on our Scotland visit – both in Edinburgh:

  • Fraser Suites — Evidence is there that it was once quite nice; when we stayed, it seemed a little tired, although it’s right on the steepest banks of the Royal Mile, which makes it fun structurally. Guests enter on Floor 5.
  • Apex Waterloo — We moved here after starting at another Apex property, which was a total disappointment; this one was better but not up to our other Apex experience in London. We did, however, love our view.

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The Crosby Street Hotel

New York City, USA ~ The Crosby Street Hotel ~ June 2016

This hotel is one of our top 3; we loved everything about it. The design was beautiful — even for us minimalists. The service was what we prefer — there when we need it but not intrusive. The location — Soho — was perfect for our weekend’s explorations, and we liked that such a terrifically executed place could be found in a neighborhood that still has just a little bit of grit.


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The view from Das Stue

Berlin, Germany ~ Das Stue ~ January 2016

Another of our top 3 hotels, Das Stue is located in the former Danish embassy near the Berlin Tiergarten. We didn’t take pictures of the room (our stay preceded hotelling.org), but it represents some of the best in German form and function. Some of our favorite spaces in the hotel are the shared ones — lounges on each floor filled with books, a bar that serves fabulous cocktails, and a lobby with a stunning staircase. We loved our view out to the wintery park — some rooms look out on the Berlin Zoo — and will always remember toasting David Bowie from our room when we learned he had died.


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A kitchen in a closet at the Town Hall

London, England ~ Town Hall Hotel ~ January 2015

The Town Hall was our first stay in East London (Bethnal Green), and we loved the hotel and neighborhood. Just as the name implies, the hotel is housed in a former town hall, and the building’s Edwardian architecture is integrated fabulously. Our room had a full-size kitchen hidden behind a folding door. We never cooked — there is far too much good eating in London’s restaurants — but the kitchen was fun to look at.


Dubuque, Iowa, USA ~ Hotel Julien ~ August 2014

We wanted a weekend getaway within a three-hour drive of Minneapolis, and Dubuque was one of the few places we hadn’t yet been. The class act in town, the Julien has been a hotel since 1839. The room was fine — nothing too memorable — but we had fun exploring Dubuque’s sites, including the incline train and the Mississippi River Aquarium.


Willamette Valley, Oregon, USA ~ Black Walnut Inn ~ July 2014

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A Willamette Valley view from the Black Walnut Inn

We were in Portland for business and took a few days to wander through the Willamette Valley and the Oregon coast. We remember the inn being nice, but the highlight was the surrounding landscape…and, of course, the wine.

Also on our Oregon visit:

The Overleaf Lodge and Spa, Yachats: The lodge was a bit of a blast from the past — not fancy but certainly good enough. Again, however, the views blew us away. The picture window in our room looked right out to the rocky coast. We loved listening to the waves beat against the rocks.

Hotel Rose, Portland: A motor inn that has been converted to a boutiquey hotel, the Rose had a fun vibe, but our room was small and a basic. We imagined Portland had more on offer so moved for the second part of our stay

The Heathman, Portland: One of Portland’s landmark historic hotels, the Heathman got most things right. The room was intimate — as are rooms in most historic hotels — but everything was well done, and the service was top-notch. The hotel’s library and art collection added to the stay. Definitely a step up from the Rose.


Valladolid, Yucatan, Mexico ~ Hotel el Meson del Marques ~ January 2014

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Hotel el Meson del Marques

We chose Valladolid after reading an article in The New York Times that made the small city in the middle of the Yucatan sound too intriguing to pass up. Surprisingly, we were able to get a room in the Meson del Marques, even though it was the featured hotel in the article; we figured rooms in January would be snapped up in a second after the article came out. We loved the hotel, which was right on the town square. It wasn’t fancy, but it was just right for a real Spanish town with an authentically sophisticated vibe — so much better than the big resorts on the Yucatan coast. From hearing the early-morning jungle sounds coming in our open windows to partaking in wonderful Yucatan cuisine, the stay was just what we needed for a brief reprieve from Minnesota in the dead of winter.


Las Vegas, USA ~ The Mandarin Oriental ~ August 2013

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Poolside at the Las Vegas Mandarin Oriental

Yes, you are reading this correctly. We went to Las Vegas in August. We wanted a weekend getaway and an excuse to lay low for a few days, reading and generally taking it easy. When we saw that the Las Vegas Mandarin Oriental doesn’t have a casino, we figured it was the place for us.

The M.O. is tucked away just off the strip; you have to look for it to find it, which was just perfect. Our room was quite nice — we’re guessing the M.O. doesn’t get as many of the “What happens in Vegas stays in Vegas” crowds — and the hotel bar midway up the tower offered fun views of the city’s craziness. The highlight for us, though, was the pool. It was surely hot, but the attentive staff made sure our umbrellas were adjusted with each shift of the sun.


Long ago, but not quite forgotten

Beijing, China ~ June 2011

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Red Capital Ranch
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Red Capital Residence
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The Emperor
  • The Emperor: Our first escape from the dump (truly) we were staying in for work. The Emperor may have been nothing all that special, but at the time, it seemed like heaven.
  • Red Capital Residence: Real courtyard home with a bomb-shelter bar underneath the courtyard
  • Red Capital Ranch (now the Shambhala): Near an unreconstructed portion of the Great Wall. Guest cottages feature Princess-and-the Pea beds and stone showers.

Wandering through France ~ July 2009

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Chateau Hotel de Rochegude

We followed the Tour de France for two weeks in 2009 and stayed in several memorable spots, made even better by being in France for bicycling’s greatest race and a nationwide spectacle that is worth seeing at least once, even if you aren’t a cycling fan.

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Hotel Mansart
  • Chateau Hotel de Rochegude ~ Provence: Anytime you have a chance to stay in a real chateau, we highly recommend it.
  • Hotel Mansart ~ Paris: Just around the corner from Place Vendome and felt truly Parisian.
  • Splendid Hotel ~ Annecy: What a beautiful town! It’s hard to pay attention to the hotel in a town like this, but Splendid was…Splendid!

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Miami, Florida, USA ~ The Mandarin Oriental

February 2018

If you live in Minnesota, winter is long — really long. It is imperative to take a break from those very short days of January or February. (We say this realizing that not everyone has the luxury of scooting off to somewhere warm.) Joan Didion’s Miami intrigued us both, and we added the city to our list.

We had stayed at the Mandarin Oriental in Las Vegas for a few nights several years ago and were impressed by it. After going back and forth between choosing a smaller art deco hotel on Miami beach or something closer to downtown, we opted for the Mandarin Oriental on Brickell Key.


Well-executed corporate

IMG_0345The Mandarin Oriental chain is, in our minds, a step up from the Hiltons or Marriotts of the world; both the Las Vegas and Miami M.O. have a distinctive identify that we don’t find in most of the big global chains. We know some hotel guests like to know what to expect — they like the sense of comfort that a chain can offer — but that tends not to be for us. Still, being a corporate property has its advantages. And the MO-Miami was able to lean on the corporate muscle to dial things in close to just right.


A bit “Cancun honeymoon”

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One of us, being a real romantic, couldn’t help but ask, “Who’s going to clean this up?”

On our first night’s stay, we arrived back at the room from a walk around Brickell (which adjoins downtown Miami) with a bottle of prosecco and some nice cheese. Our plan was to have a little happy hour on the balcony overlooking Biscayne Bay. Upon opening the door, we surprised a friendly housekeeper, who told us she was doing turn-down service. No problem, we said, we’ll just head to the balcony. Twenty-five minutes later, we could still hear her busily doing something inside. When she eventually finished we walked in to find our room decorated with fresh rose petals. One of us, being a real romantic, couldn’t help but ask, “Who’s going to clean this up?” It was really a lovely gesture, but we’re fairly sure the hotel had us confused with another couple who must have been celebrating a honeymoon or anniversary. And, truth be told, it did call for some tidying of our otherwise pristine room.


Not Miami Beach

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This was our first stay in Miami, and we were tempted to do the Miami Beach thing. But downtown and its environs appealed to us more based on the things we wanted to do. The decision to stay in Brickell was a good one. The scene on Miami Beach is fun to take in…for a few hours. The Mandarin Oriental clearly hosts people on vacation who are looking to unwind, but the M.O. seems more grown up than what we experienced on Miami Beach. What’s more, the hotel is within walking distance of several Miami neighborhoods and destinations, or you can connect easily with public transport.


Competing for a pool spot

Of course, even though we weren’t staying Miami Beach, we still wanted a little pool time. The Mandarin Oriental has a nice, although small, pool with all of the requisite features including a poolside bar, and a man-made “beach” that is really an extended kind of patio covered in sand (no swimming in the bay here). With the help of the staff, we managed to secure two nice chaise lounges in the shade on one day of our stay, but on other days, the crowds were too large, and we aren’t competitive enough to vie for the next opening. In fact, a few twenty-somethings snatched two lounges right away from us. Ces’t la vie. Bottom line: Serious pool goers might find the lack of lounging spaces a stress inducer.


…And the manatee

Walking around Brickell Key on the first day, we read a sign that describes the manatees that inhabit Miami’s waters. One of us declared that we were not leaving Miami until we saw a manatee. So there you have it, and  here it is.

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Stay details

  • The Mandarin Oriental Miami: www.mandarinoriental/miami
  • Location: Brickell Key
  • Our Stay: 4 nights — February 15-18, 2018
  • Room: Deluxe Bay View Room

What we saw, what we ate

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Stillwater, Minnesota, USA ~ The Lora

July 2018 (with a second visit in November 2021)

Our neighborhood — downtown St. Paul, Minnesota — empties out on holidays. Minnesotans tend to head for their cabins. We’ve never been cabin people, but spending holidays at home can feel a bit lonely, so this year for the Fourth of July we decided to try the Lora, a brand new hotel in neighboring Stillwater, a town about 30 minutes east of St. Paul on the St. Croix River. The Lora had gotten some nice media mentions, and it looked like something a bit different than what Stillwater is known for: the bed-and-breakfast scene. (By the way, we’re also not bed-and-breakfast people.)

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The Lora ~ Stillwater, MN, USA ~ July 2018


Cool reuse of a historic property

We recognized the building — or more accurately the group of buildings — that makes up the Lora as soon as we pulled into town. The 1873 complex originally housed the Joseph Wolf Brewing Company, and it is a Stillwater landmark. It’s clear some serious money went into redeveloping the buildings into The Lora. Nothing seems to have gone untouched.


Paint-still-drying pristine 

Our stay followed the hotel’s opening by only a few weeks, and we could quite literally still smell the paint. Everything was fresh, unmarred, and if not for the used Nespresso pod left in the machine, we might have thought we were the very first to stay in the room.

(Note to hoteliers: Guests want the illusion that no one has been in the room before. Evidence of the previous night’s guests is unwelcome. We once checked in to a great Kimpton property in Washington D.C. only to be turned off by finding a nightgown in the drawer. Yuck.) 

When we arrived at the Lora, we were able to open the window, which is always a nice feature, and in this case helped with some of the paint fumes.


Aesthetically pleasing for the price

Style-wise, the hotel and our room were tasteful — with the exception of a couch in the lobby that had built-in outlets for charging devices and an odd clothes rack in the room mounted on the dresser next to the TV. Everything from the furniture to the linens was good quality, and we especially liked the three wall hooks — perfect for bags, hats and umbrellas — and the Faribault Mills blanket. We can’t say we were blown away; the decor in the room felt perhaps a little underdone But we’d rather have simplicity than lots of purposeless design elements, and in many spaces such as the hallways, the structure of the building is the real highlight.

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Everything was fresh, unmarred, and if not for the used Nespresso pod left in the machine, we might have thought we were the very first to stay in the room.


Not full service, but helpful and friendly nonetheless

It’s hard to say exactly what the Lora offers in terms of amenities. The room didn’t have anything like a guest services guide. A guide — along with a pad and pen to jot down notes — is something you don’t miss until you don’t have it. (The next day in the lobby, we overhead that these were yet to arrive). With that said, the staff offered to recommend restaurants and let us know they were available to help in any way. The hotel does have a coffee shop, a restaurant and a bar right in the complex, and it offers a few fun features: bikes to borrow and some kind of pet program that appears to feature dog beds and bones.


If you’re not into B&B kitschy, this is your place in Stillwater

When we find ourselves in Stillwater again, we’ll surely return to the Lora. It’s within walking distance of everything in the historic downtown. It’s about as sleek as Stillwater can be. And it gave us a good excuse to do something we would never do at home: climb into a big, squishy bed and watch a BBC marathon of Blue Planet.


Stay details

  • The Lora: https://www.lorahotel.com
  • Location: On the south end of Main Street in Stillwater
  • Our Stay: 1 night — July 3, 2018
  • Room: Deluxe King

What we saw, what we ate


November 2021: Second visit

65957043091__720D24E7-9D75-45A9-B1E2-387A5B0BE6F5 copyAfter spending Thanksgiving 2020 in Stillwater at the Hotel Crosby and having a lovely time (even in the midst of an early pandemic spike), we decided that a second holiday in the town along the St. Croix RIver was in order. With fond memories of the Lora, we thought we should return there to see how the hotel was aging three years after its opening. And wouldn’t you know it, we got exactly the same room. All in all, the Lora delivered again, although we were disappointed that its restaurant was completely closed on Thanksgiving day. (The year before at the Crosby, we were able to order room service.) With sandwiches and chips from an area gas station — supplemented by cocktails from the mini bar — we settled in to watch a re-run of the Macy’s Thanksgiving Day Parade. The next day, Stillwater woke back up, and we had a fun time hiking, watching the holiday lights go on at the lift bridge and having a proper dinner at the hotel’s restaurant, Feller.

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